30 years ago: 25 April 1982, Everest Trek day 6, Periche to Loboche

Sunday 25th April 1982:  Periche to Loboche (4 miles)

It was cloudy when I woke so I didn’t rush and had a leisurely breakfast before leaving Periche at 07:40.  I reached Dughla (15,200 ft) in 90 minutes, the last part being quite a steep climb.  There I had a 30 minute tea break before continuing on to Loboche (a further 90 minute walk). arriving at 11:10 just as quite heavy snow started.  The main lodge was already full so I went on to another, the extravagantly named Kongmala View Hotel.  It was basically a sleeping shed with a hole in part of the roof.  Perhaps not surprisingly I had it to myself!  The only drawback with dawdling and looking at birds on the way was that the more dedicated trekkers got to each village first and took the best lodgings.  I doubted though that many of them had noticed the three species of accentor or the flock of 18 male Grandalas that I had seen, but generally there were few birds at this altitude.  My feet started to get very cold soon after I arrived but the weather was too bad to venture out an didn’t improve before dark.  It doesn’t bode well for what will be my highest night ever (just over 16,000 ft), but a good test to see if a night at Gorak Shep (at 17,000 ft) is on the cards.  I put on all the clothes I was carrying, including 4 pairs of socks, then put my rucksack on over lower half of sleeping bag.  Despite this it was a very cold shivery night, during which I hardly seemed to sleep at all.  Sending my big coat home was definitely not a good move.

Birds recorded:  Himalayan Griffon Vulture 2, Tibetan Snowcock h, Snow Pigeon 3, Olive-backed Pipit 1, Rosy Pipit 4, Black-backed Wagtail 2, Rufous-breasted Accentor 15, Himalayan Accentor 10, Alpine Accentor 2, Blue-fronted Redstart 15, Grandala 18 males, Alpine Chough 60, Chough 4, Large-billed Crow 2, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 50, Beautiful Rosefinch 5.

Himalayan Accentor south of Dughla

Rufous-breasted Accentor south of Dughla, probably my favourite of Nepal's Accentors

The welcome tea stop at Dughla and view to south.  Periche is further down the valley, under the clouds

me north of Dughla, looking and feeling rather under-dressed for the altitude.  At least the hair provided some insulation!



30 years ago: 24 April 1982, Everest Trek day 5, Periche & Chukung

Saturday 24th April 1982:  Periche to Chukung and back (9 miles)

I was up at 05:30 to another excellent crisp, cold, clear morning.  Today I had decided to walk up the side valley to Chukung and back to get accustomed to altitude before venturing any higher tomorrow.  Once over the ridge to Dingboche I followed a wide valley up a well worn trail across a generally rocky surface interspersed with little spiky bushes.  I saw quite a few of birds, especially on the hillside above Dingboche where I approached to within six feet of a very photogenic Tibetan Snowcock!  I also saw a superb male Himalayan Rubythroat from trail above Dingboche.  It was an excellent walk and I arrived at Chukung (15,500 ft) at 10:00 just as the cloud closed in on Ama Dablam.  It doesn’t look so distinctive from this angle.  I left Chukung soon after 11:00 and returned slowly.  It started snowing lightly from 12:00 and continued pretty much non-stop until dark although there wer a few sunny periods and the snow did not settle.  I was back in Periche at 14:00 after spending a while on the ridge between there and Dingboche.  Single Steppe and Golden Eagles apparently migrating north seemed to be finding it hard going.  I went back out after a refreshing cup of tea and plate of boiled potatoes and finally returned to the lodge at 16:00 when I was driven back by a cold wind and lack of birds.

Birds seen:  Black Kite 1 flew N, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 1, Steppe Eagle 1 flew N, Golden Eagle 1 flew N, Sparrowhawk 1, Kestrel 1, Tibetan Snowcock 3, Snow Pigeon 100, Olive-backed Pipit 6, Rosy Pipit 4, Black-backed Wagtail 4, Rufous-breasted Accentor 20, Robin Accentor 10, Alpine Accentor 1, Himalayan Rubythroat 1 male, Blue-fronted Redstart 35, River Chat 2, Tickell’s Warbler 2, Alpine Chough 80, Chough 2, Large-billed Crow 20, Raven 1, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 100, Brandt’s Mountain Finch 60, Beautiful Rosefinch 50.

Periche at dawn

 

looking down on Periche from Dingboche ridge

 

fields at Dingboche, original slide scratched, as too many were, by a speck of dirt in the film canister

Dingboche

bird-shaped rock on the hillside above Dingboche, or is it?

Tibetan Snowcock are not supposed to be very approachable ...

but I'm glad this one was!

Snow Pigeon at Dingboche

Chukung and Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam not looking so distinctive from the north

Ama Dablam from Chukung

Chukung tea house

the valley at Chukung

Robin Accentor at Chukung

another Robin Accentor

if only our Dunnocks looked like this ...

... or even better this.  Rufous-breasted Accentor at Chukung

Ama Dablam in the clouds

Blue-fronted Redstart at Chukung

fields at Dingboche on the return to Periche

looking down on Periche from Dingboche ridge

30 years ago: 23 April 1982, Everest Trek day 4, Thyangboche to Periche

Friday 23rd April 1982:  Thyangboche Monastery to Periche (8 miles)

I was up at 05:30 to the most amazing clear crisp morning imaginable, with all the peaks showing and a slight overnight snowfall/very heavy frost adding to the spectacle.  Thyangboche had been amazing last evening as the clouds cleared but this was something else again.  Not sure views could get better than this I soon dispatched a film.  I quickly breakfasted on pancakes and jam and was on my way by 06:30, only to get as far as a very approachable male Impeyan Pheasant feeding in a field at the edge of the clearing which I took 12 photos of.  I followed the trail which dropped down to cross the Imja Khola through excellent looking forest.  Not many birds but some very good ones including brilliant views of Blood Pheasant.  I reached Pangboche at 09:20 having taken things very slowly.  Quite a few women were working in the potato fields here.  I had a brief tea stop and continued on my way at 09:40, arriving at Periche (13,900 ft) at 12:00 after first taking the wrong turning and ending up near Dingboche before realising my mistake and cutting back over the ridge.  It was clear until 10:00 (again) and then began to cloud over, with light snow falling when I arrived at Periche.  The scenery is really splendid - Periche is in a wide valley with only very stunted moorland type vegetation.  I stayed in Himalaya Hotel where I was the only guest.  It was more basic than usual - just three small square rooms, a ‘dorm’, warm kitchen (where the family slept) and store room - but very friendly and excellent food.  One of the most memorable days ever, the mountains here are really superb and much better and closer than those on the Jomson Trek.  I can’t wait to see what Kala Pattar or Base Camp are like and hope to get to both.  Birding is not so good, with fewer species but this doesn’t seem to be so important somehow.  I spent 2 hours wandering about in the valley bottom in the snow before returning to the lodge again at 15:30.  I then passed a pleasant 2-3 hours in the lodge’s kitchen, keeping warm by the fire and watching the family running it and, through the open door, the snow falling outside.  I had four bowls of Sherpa stew - excellent, mainly potatoes with some large (kidney type) beans, spinach and mushy daal.  I’m not sure I’ve ever easten so much before!

Birds seen:  Lammergeyer 1, Hen Harrier 2, Blood Pheasant 5 males and 3 females, Impeyan Pheasant 1 male, Snow Pigeon 100, Olive-backed Pipit 5, Rosy Pipit 12, Black-backed Wagtail 4, Brown Dipper 2, Rufous-breasted Accentor 6, Robin Accentor 1, Alpine Accentor 1, Red-flanked Bluetail 6, Hodgson’s Redstart 1 male, Blue-fronted Redstart 25, River Chat 3, Blue Whistling Thrush 1, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler 1, Lemon-rumped Warbler 4, Tickell’s Warbler 1, Black-faced Laughingthrush 20, Grey-crested Tit 4, Black-crested Tit 6, Coal Tit 1, Chough 50, Large-billed Crow 30, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 100, Brandt’s Mountain Finch 3, Beautiful Rosefinch 25, White-browed Rosefinch 2 (same), White-winged Grosbeak 6.

Thyangboche Monastery at dawn, Ama Dablam dominating

 

the cold air at over 12,000 feet made this truely breath-taking



a hard frost added to the spectacle

Thyangboche Monastery and Ama Dablam

Everest just peeking over the Nuptse-Lhotse ridge

Nuptse, Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam, an impressive roll-call

Nuptse, Everest and LhotseNuptse

Everest and prayer flags

minor peaks behind Thyangboche chorten

more views of Thyangboche

Beautiful Rosefinch at Thyangboche

Black-faced Laughingthrush at Thyangboche



leaving Thyangboche ...



... but I didn't get very far

Impeyan Pheasant feeding in a field at Thyangboche

pheasants are known for their spectacular plumage and this one is no exception in matching its surroundings

Everest from near Dewche (north of Thyangboche)

Everest from Dewche (further north of Thyangboche)

Dewche

Ama Dablam and a chorten by the trail on the way to Pangboche

looking back at the chorten and Thyangboche ridge

Everest hiding in the clouds

looking back at a bridge on the trail to Pangboche

Pangboche fields and Ama Dablam

Pangboche

looking down on Periche, note the deterioration in the weather

the Himalaya Hotel at Periche, basic but very friendly and served excellent food

Yak at Periche

storm at Periche