30 years ago: 14-17 June 1982, Manali & Khoti

Monday 14th June 1982:  Simla to Manali (bus), Himachel Pradesh, India

Left Simla at 05:30 to start a pretty desperate 12 hour bus journey to Manali.  We had to change buses at Kulu which made our seat reservations invalid.  Saw a few birds from the bus including three Sarus Cranes but it was an experience best forgotten.  On arrival at Manali we were being hassled by the hotel touts when Jon Eams and Craig Robson appeared in the mele.  “Do you want to stay in our hotel?” I heard Craig’s familiar voice ask.  We certainly did, following them first to the Mona Lisa Restaurant (quite good) then the adjoining lodge (20 rupees for room for three).  Richard Grimmett, Rod Martins and James Wolstencroft were with them.

Birds seen from bus included:  Black Kite 10, Sarus Crane 3, Red-wattled Lapwing 1, White-breasted Kingfisher 2, Wire-tailed Swallow 2, Red-rumped Swallow 10, Plumbeous Redstart 5, Pied Stonechat 25, Blue-headed Rock Thrush 1, Blue Whistling Thrush 6, Streaked Laughingthrush 2, Purple Sunbird 1, Long-tailed Shrike 2, Golden Oriole 4, Bank Myna 15, Jungle Myna 2.

Tuesday 15th June 1982:  Manali to Khoti (jeep), Himachel Pradesh, India

We waited around until 10:00 when, after much hassle, Richard Grimmet and Jon Eames got permission for us all to stay in a forest rest house at Khoti.  We quickly bought some supplies and all piled into a jeep (60 rupees).  We arrived at Khoti where a guy unlocked the cottage for us.  Great fun!  I spent the rest of the day with Nick on rather dubious paths up in the forest seeing a few birds including Striong-footed Bush Warbler (at last), a pair of White-cheeked Nuthatches and 5 Indian Blue Robins.  While eating in the village after dark Craig walked in with a big smile on his face and told us he’d seen a Brown Bear.  Quite a grip.

Birds seen included:  Lammergeyer 3, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 8, Common Buzzard 1, Little Cuckoo 1, Himalayan Pied Woodpecker 3, Indian Blue Robin 5, Plumbeous Redstart 1, River Chat 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 10, *Strong-footed Bush Warbler 1, Large-billed Leaf Warbler 1, Lemon-rumped Warbler 4, Siberian Flycatcher 1, Streaked Laughingthrush 1, *White-cheeked Nuthatch 2 at nest hole, Himalayan Treecreeper 2, Scarlet Rosefinch 2, Pink-browed Rosefinch 1, Rock Bunting 2.

White-cheeked Nuthatch at Khoti

Wednesday 16th June 1982:  Khoti, Himachel Pradesh, India

We were up at 05:00 and out before 05:30.  Nick and I legged it up the hillside along a reasonable path to the upper clearing.  Before reaching it I disappeared off for a toilet stop and heard frightening rustling, grunting and roaring hearding my way.  A medium sized dark blackish shape ran up the hillside partly obsacured by vegetation about 20m away from me – a Black Bear!  Somewhat shaken I quickly returned to Nick who was so gripped he charged in straight after it but to no avail.  We got to the clearing and were sitting overlooking a snow covered river when a large, pale Brown Bear came down the far bank deceptively fast, and disappeared below us after being in full view for a couple of minutes.  I’d never seen a bear before so it was amazing to see two in the space of 15 minutes.  We continued climbing but the path got really bad and at one point I slipped 10m down a snow covered slope, clawing to arrest my progress with limited success.  We spent rest of day crashing around bushes high above Khoti and sitting in a sunny clearing before returning to rest house at 18:30.  As well as the bears we saw some nice birds including 4 Black and Yellow Grosbeaks whixh were new and 3 White-bellied Redstarts.  I’ve a head cold developing today and my stomach is still not normal.

Birds seen included:  Lammergeyer 1, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 2, Common Buzzard 2, Upland Buzzard 1, Booted Eagle 1, Hobby 1, Impeyan Pheasant 2, Rufous Turtle Dove 10, Himalayan Pied Woodpecker 2, Olive-backed Pipit 2, Wren 1, Indian Blue Robin 1, Red-flanked Bluetail 2, Blue-fronted Redstart 2, White-bellied Redstart 3, River Chat 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 10, White-collared Blackbird 1, Golden-spectacled Warbler 1, Western Crowned Leaf Warbler 3, Large-billed Leaf Warbler 1, Lemon-rumped Warbler 6, Ultramarine Flycatcher 3, Yellow-bellied Fantail 2, Variegated Laughingthrush 4, Chestnut-tailed Minla 2, Dark-breasted Rosefinch 1, Pink-browed Rosefinch 8, *Black and Yellow Grosbeak 4, Red-headed Bullfinch 1, Rock Bunting 1.

views from hillside above Khoti

even higher above Khoti

Thursday 17th June 1982:  Khoti to Manali, Himachel Pradesh, India

My cold came out during the night when very sweaty and blocked up.  I must have been feeling poorly as I stayed in my sleeping bag reading while the others went out for the morning although the weather was not too good outside.  I felt a lot better by the time they returned and we then walked to the cafe in the village at midday where we got a bus into Manali (2 rupees).  The Tourist Office there wouldn’t sell me any postcards!

Birds seen included:  Plumbeous Redstart 3, Blue Rock Thrush 1, Blue Whistling Thrush 10, Rock Bunting 1.

30 years ago: 9-13 June 1982, Simla and Blossom

Wednesday 9th June 1982:  Delhi to Simla, India

A very hot night.  Apparently it was 110°F (43°C) in Delhi yesterday.  We slowly got up and ready to leave, leaving our unwanted luggage in store.  We walked to a milk bar which was fortunately open when we arrived just before 08:00 (all the other places seemed closed).  We got an auto-rickshaw to the bus station with a scuffle between Dave and driver when we arrived there as we’d only pay him the metre charge (we later learned that the driver was probably right as there might have been a surcharge as there were three of us, although he didn’t say so).  The bus left on time at 09:30 and was very comfortable with a fan operating when it stopped, curtains and the conductor selling drinks.  It was very hot as we drove N across the plains, reaching low hills at 15:00.  It was then an interesting climb up to Simla (c7000 ft) with a narrow gauge railway in sight for most of the time.  We arrived to find all but a few expensive hotels were full.  Hotel Ashoka allowed us to sleep in a corridor where they provided beds provided with a room being promised for the next day.  Simla had an almost toy town atmosphere and was full of Indian tourists escaping the heat of the plains.  It’s little narrow streets were very reminiscent of St. Ives in Cornwall, although in the mountains rather than by the sea.  There were lots of conifers around the town but nowhere apparent where one could go birding.

Birds seen, mainly from bus included:  Night Heron 1, Indian Pond Heron 20, Black Kite 10, Asian White-backed Vulture 10, Red-wattled Lapwing 10, Collared Dove 20, Red Turtle Dove 1, Greater Coucal 1, Little Green Bee-eater 4, Hoopoe 2, Red-vented Bulbul 10, White-cheeked Bulbul 20, Indian Robin 4, Blue Whistling Thrush 1, Purple Sunbird 2, Bank Myna 30.

Thursday 10th June 1982:  Simla, Himachel Pradesh, India

After a good night’s sleep in he corridor we moved into a room after breakfast.  We spent the morning wandering around in town visiting the Forestry Office to get information on the Simla Water Catchment Area at Dhalli, the Tourist Office for bus gen and the Post Office.  I bought an air letter and wrote it over lunch, then posted it on our return to Forestry Office to collect a permit for Dhalli.  We had to see the Commissioner to do so and I was a bit worried that our appearance might not go down too well but he seemed a nice bloke and getting the permit was no problem.  No lights in hotel at night was a bit annoying.

Birds seen included:  White-backed Vulture 10, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 1, Red-rumped Swallow 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 3, Grey-hooded Warbler 3, Streaked Laughingthrush 1, Spot-winged Black Tit 5, Himalayan Treecreeper 2.

Friday 11th June 1982:  Dhalli (Simla Water Catchment Area)

We got a bus at 07:00 to Dhalli and walked up the road in the rain to the Water Catchment Area.  Good looking forest, mainly conifers, with a dead level track contouring around it for several miles.  The first part of the day was very wet and cold but it became drier and warmer later and the sun even came out for a while.  An unobtrusive local kept behind us all the way, presumably an employee keeping an eye on us, or making sure we didn’t get lost.  We returned to Simla by bus early evening.

Birds recorded included:  White-backed Vulture 4, Mountain Hawk Eagle 1, Common Hill Partridge h, Rufous Turtle Dove 15, Great Barbet h, Scaly-bellied Green Woodpecker 2, Brown-fronted Woodpecker 1, Blue Whistling Thrush 5, Long-billed Thrush 3, Grey-winged Blackbird 3, Grey-hooded Warbler 10, *Western Crowned Leaf Warbler 2, Beautiful Niltava 2, Verditer Flycatcher 1, Ultramarine Flycatcher 6, White-throated Laughingthrush 30, Streaked Laughingthrush 4, Red-headed Laughingthrush 1, Green Shrike Babbler 1, Red-headed Tit 20, White-tailed Nuthatch 1, Himalayan Treecreeper 2, Jay 3, Rock Bunting 2.

Saturday 12th June 1982:  Simla to Blossom, Himachel Pradesh

A lazy start to the day.  We booked out of the hotel and strolled down into town to book a bus to Manali for 14^th.  We then caught the 11:15 bus to Chail.  It took about an hour to clear Dhalli and we arrived at Chail at 14:10 to find no suitable Cheer Pheasant habitat.  We enquired at Forestry Office in Chaill and were told to go to Blossom, 4 miles away.  We decided it was best to sleep out at Blossom to be sure of being there early, so we took our bags and walked, arriving soon after 17:00, having seen 9 Lanceolated Jays on the way.  Just before dusk, at about 19:30, a Cheer Pheasant started calling but we failed to locate it.  Soon it, or another, called from below us and Dave spotted it.  My views were not very good, but enough to be getting on with but Nick failed to see it at all, having wandered off to look for the first one.  An Eagle Owl calling from below us at dusk refused to show, with the hillside too steep in places to contemplate going after it in the dark.  After Gosiankund we were becoming dab hands at sleeping out and had no problems doing so close to the road.  It was clear, not cold and there was no traffic to disturb us.

Birds recorded included:  White-backed Vulture 5, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 10, Black Francolin h, *Cheer Pheasant 1 male, Rufous Turtle Dove 6, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon 1, Slaty-headed Parakeet 2, Eagle Owl h, Great Barbet h, Brown-fronted Woodpecker 1, Upland Pipit h, Blue Whistling Thrush 2, Verditer Flycatcher 4, Ultramarine Flycatcher 2, Streaked Laughingthrush 2, Bronzed Drongo 2, *Lanceolated Jay 9, Red-billed Blue Magpie 1.

Sunday 13th June 1982:  Blossom to Simla, Himachel Pradesh

I was woken at 04:15 by a few spots of rain.  As dark clouds were looming we packed away our sleeping bags and put on waterproofs in preparation for a down pour which fortunately did not materialise.  A Cheer Pheasant started calling at 04:45 and we quickly saw a pair in poor light with better views of another pair being obtained later.  We walked back to Chail seeing more Lanceolated Jays and a Himalayan Pied Woodpecker on the way.  We arrived at Chail at 11:15 but had to wait three hours for a bus, partly in a very good, but flashy restaurant (The Hot Shop).  We got back to Simla at 17:30 and returned to Hotel Ashoka.  My stomach was playing up for second day, but not badly.

Birds seen included:  White-backed Vulture 1, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 1, Crested Serpent Eagle 1, Black Francolin 3, Cheer Pheasant 2 males and 2 females, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon 1, Slaty-headed Parakeet 3, *Himalayan Pied Woodpecker 1, Upland Pipit 5, White-cheeked Bulbul 10, Blue-headed Rock Thrush 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 2, Orange-headed Ground Thrush 1 male, Grey-hooded Warbler 4, Striated Prinia 1, Verditer Flycatcher 1, Ultramarine Flycatcher 1, Black-chinned Babbler 2, Streaked Laughingthrush 1, Bronzed Drongo 3, Lanceolated Jay 4, Red-billed Blue Magpie 1.

30 years ago: 3-8 June 1982, Kathmandu to Delhi

Thursday 3rd June 1982:  Kathmandu, Nepal

A lazy day in Kathmandu.  I got my expired visa extended for 150 rupees with no problems, although I had to leave my passport overnight.  I bought a copy of Newsweek and went to the British Council Library to catch up on news.  I ate quite a lot - Aunt Jane’s for breakfast and in the evening, lunch in Jamalay’s.  After dinner we went to the Casino but couldn’t get any free tokens at the door as we’d been led to believe and so we returned immediately (the idea being to gamble with free tokens and keep any winnings).  Colin and the others were also back from Langtang but had not seen anything surprising.  Good to see them again.  Colin was going back to the UK but some of the others were continuing on to the Western Himalayas.  Sticky heat at night made getting to sleep a problem.  Unfortunately the lone mosquito seems to have survived too.  Few birds seen.

Friday 4th June 1982:  Kathmandu, Nepal

We breakfasted and got bus tickets to Bhairahawa on Indian border (50 rupees) for the following morning.  I collected my passport, bought some cheap tapes and an airline type bag (Chinese made and looks OK - should be as cost 135 rupees).  Just what I want for travelling.  I’m relying heavily on leaving some gear in Delhi, though Carol Inskipp taking my films home removes a big worry.  Lunch at Jamalay’s and when Dave announced that we were we leaving we got a free brownie each.  Dave got a similar T shirt to mine for 15 rupees, less than half the price I paid, although mine was still pretty cheap.  I should have let him negotiate for me.  I changed another US$20, and my finances are down to US$100, £240 and IR100, the latter being part of the change from buying the bus tickets.  We made another abortive casino attempt which I gave up on at an early stage.  I’m a bit sad to be leaving Nepal, a superb time and it has been good to me with most of the birds I’d hoped for (46 new ones in just over 3 months).

Birds seen on 3rd and 4th included:  White-backed Vulture 6, Little Swift 20, Magpie Robin 2.

bag shop in Kathmandu

Saturday 5th June 1982:  Kathmandu to Gorakhpur, Nepal/India

We were up at 04:30 and on the bus soon after 05:00.  I was very comfortable.  A bit late leaving but we made good time to Narayargadh, arriving at 10:30.  It then took three hours to cross the Narayani River, a tributary of the Ganges, transfer to another equally luxurious minibus and get started again.  The river was flowing strongly and at one stage I was sure our ‘raft’ wasn’t going to make it across, but it did, ending up several hundred metres further down stream.  We arrived in Bhairahawa in light rain just before 16:00 and after walking a small part of the 4 kms to the border got a rickshaw for the rest.  Immigration on both sides of the border went very smoothly despite my putting today as my birthday.  Only the ywear was wrong.  I changed my last 150 Nepali rupees into Indian rupees at the border.  It was very muddy in Sunauli and after a lot of hassle we got a slow (3.5 hr) bus to Gorakhpur.  This was a terrible bus journey, very crowded and a leaking roof, pretty much over Nick who really suffered.  It was still raining at Gorakhpur where we were told at the railway station that the next train to Delhi was not until 10:30 the next day, great!  We found a hotel nearby (50 rupees for room for 3) and had some rather dubious food.  A bad night’s sleep despite a very comfortable bed.  Mosquitoes and the impression things were crawling up my legs were the problem.

Birds seen on journey included:  Asian Openbilled Stork 6, Woolly-necked Stork 1, Egyptian Vulture 2, Asian White-backed Vulture 5, Peafowl 1, Red-wattled Lapwing 8, Ring-necked Parakeet 20, Greater Coucal 3, White-breasted Kingfisher 1, Pied Kingfisher 4, Little Green Bee-eater 2, Indian Roller 5, Red-rumped Swallow 20, Asian Pied Starling 2, Baya Weaver 1.

Sunday 6th June 1982:  Gorakhpur to Lucknow, India

This had to be the worst day of the trip to date, and yesterday had been bad.  Who’s idea was it to travel from Kathmandu to Delhi overland rather than flying?  We couldn’t book a seat on the train so just turned up on Ghorakhpur Station at 08:00.  The train arrived at 08:30 and we got on and got seats, then the train filled up and was absolutely packed by the time it eventually left at 12:15, nearly 2 hours late.  Despite having a window seat I was very cramped and could hardly move my legs at all.  We arrived at Lucknow after a very slow journey at 23:00 (average speed 25-30 kph) to find the train terminated there (we’d thought it was a through train to Delhi).  When the Delhi train arrived there was a mad scramble to get on it.  We were evicted from the reserved coaches and there was only one general coach which was absolutely full, with loads of locals on the roof - something we certainly did not fancy.  After being thrown out of the guards van a friendly soldier intervened on our behalf and led us back down the train.  He got us into a reserved coach at the second attempt and from then on we had a comfortable journey.  I was on my karrimat on the floor most of the time.  The worry of eviction persisted for two hours or so until a guard appeared and we happily paid a further 8 rupees reservation charge.  I then got a few hours sleep undisturbed.  Those in the carriage were brilliant in accommodating us and the soldier who’d got us in there had really saved the day for us.

Birds seen from train included:  Indian Pond Heron 10, Asian Openbilled Stork 10, Woolly-necked Stork 1, Lesser Whistling Duck 10, Egyptian Vulture 2, Asian White-backed Vulture 10, Peafowl 15, Sarus Crane 5, White-breasted Waterhen 2, Pheasant-tailed Jacana 2, Bronze-winged Jacana 2, Red-wattled Lapwing 10, Ring-necked Parakeet 20, White-breasted Kingfisher 1, Pied Kingfisher 2, Little Green Bee-eater 10, Indian Roller 5, Jungle Babbler 1, Asian Pied Starling 5.

Monday 7th June 1982:  Lucknow to Delhi, India

We arrived in Delhi at 09:00 and got a motor rickshaw direct to Hotel Bright (87 rupees for a room for 3).  It was expensive but looked good and they were happy to look after our gear for the rest of the trip.  We visited the tourist office, Ariana Afghan Office (where we got reservations on a flight home on 25th July with no problems) and three banks before I was eventually able to change £160 of traveller’s cheques at Thomas Cook.  Hopefully this will be enough to last until my return.  Nick and Dave went to the Kashmiri Gate bus terminal to book a bus to Simla.  I returned to our hotel via ice cream parlours (excellent strawberry ice cream for 3 rupees) and a shoe shop where I bought a pair of size 11 plimsolls for 165 rupees.  Expensive but they look to be good quality and what’s more they actually seem to fit, if a little on the large size This satisfies last of the conditions I set out on 21 May for continuing in India!  Bumped into Tim Inskipp in Connault Circus (Carol had gone home with my films), and had a good meal with him in the ‘standard’ mixed grill for 22 rupees.  We arranged to meet Tim the following morning for some birding.

Birds seen, mainly from train included:  Indian Pond Heron 10, Black-shouldered Kite 1, Egyptian Vulture 4, Brahminy Kite 2, Asian White-backed Vulture 10, Peafowl 10, Pheasant-tailed Jacana 1, Red-wattled Lapwing 5, Indian Robin 1, Asian Pied Starling 2.

Tuesday 8th June 1982:  Delhi (Lodi Park and Yamuna Bund), India

Up at 05:00 having slept through the alarm at 04:30.  We went round to Ringmo Guest House for Tim Inskipp and got a taxi to Lodi Gardens and spent an hour there (05:30-06:30) seeing some good birds, including Oriental Green Barbet.  It was very popular with jogging and constitutionalizing locals.  We went on to the Yamuna Bund, arriving at 06:45, where we boosted the day list considerably.  It was very hot even by 07:30 and smog from the steelworks opposite was quite unpleasant so we left soon after 07:45.  I spent the rest of the day lazing in ice cream parlours and milk shake bars interspersed with a look around a few book shops.  I had an excellent meal in a local coffee shop and drank 4 500ml milk shakes and ate 4 ice creams at total cost of 16 rupees without apparent ill effect!

Birds seen included:  Little Cormorant 1, Purple Heron 2, Spot-billed Duck 6, Black Kite 10, Asian White-backed Vulture 10, Black-winged Stilt 20, Avocet 6, Little Ringed Plover 1, River Lapwing 4, Red-wattled Lapwing 10, Gull-billed Tern 2, River Tern 2, Black-billed Tern 1, Little Tern 20, Whiskered Tern 4, Collared Dove 20, Red Turtle Dove 5, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon 2, Alexandrine Parakeet 5, Ring-necked Parakeet 50, Common Koel 2, Spotted Owlet 1, Pied Kingfisher 1, Little Green Bee-eater 10, Hoopoe 4, *Oriental Green Barbet 1, Coppersmith Barbet 2, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker 2, Crested Lark 2, Indian Robin 2, Ashy Prinia 2, Graceful Prinia 4, Common Babbler 2, Jungle Babbler 15, Golden Oriole 2, Bay-backed Shrike 3, Brahminy Starling 6, Bank Myna 4, Baya Weaver 3, Black-throated Weaver 15, Avadavat 3, Indian Silverbill 2.

30 years ago: 2 June 2012, Langtang Trek day 17, Pati Bhanjyang to Kathmandu

Wednesday 2nd June 1982:  Pati Bhanjyang to Kathmandu (7 miles)

We left Pati Bhanjyang at 07:45.  It was a steep climb up to Borlang Bhanjyang (8000 ft) but we made good progress and my legs were feeling good.  The descent to Sundarijal (4800 ft) was tedious, with very few birds seen and only hazy views of Kathmandu.  We arrived at Sundarijal at 11:30 and after waiting an hour for a bus were back in Kathmandu soon after 13:00.  Four letters from home were waiting for me at the Post Office, our first port of call once off the bus.  Back at the Blue Mountain Lodge I got the things I’d not taken on the trek out of store and found my watch was working again, presumably having thoroughly dried out from its Chitwan drenching.  It was showing the wrong time but I soon corrected that and it then seemed to be working normally.  We saw Tim & Carol Inskipp and Carol agreed to take my films home.  It is very kind of her as I’ve got quite a lot and really good news as it was something I was worrying about with respect to travelling around India.  I bought two T shirts but should have bargained for a better price even though they were only 10 ruppees each.  It was excellent to be clean and in clean clothes again – not something that I’m usually too concerned about!  It was hard to get to sleep due to the heat and one annoying mosquito in our room.  In 17 days on Langtang Trek I’d walked an estimated 134 miles and saw 177 species (hearing 10 more).  Very comparable to Everest  - same duration, virtually same distance (133 miles) and 167 species seen.  Brilliant.

Birds recorded:  Large Hawk Cuckoo h, Cuckoo h, Oriental Cuckoo h, Little Cuckoo h, Himalayan Swiftlet 20, White-throated Needletail 2, Red-rumped Swallow 10, Upland Pipit 2,  White-cheeked Bulbul 1, Magpie Robin 1, Grey Bushchat 3, Little Forktail 1, Blue Whistling Thrush 1, Tickell’s Thrush 2, Beautiful Niltava 1 male, Verditer Flycatcher 6, Ultramarine Flycatcher 1, White-throated Laughingthrush 4, Streaked Laughingthrush 5, Blue-winged Minla 1, Black-capped Sibia 4, Stripe-throated Yuhina 2, Red-headed Tit 15, White-tailed Nuthatch 1, Green-tailed Sunbird 1, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker 1, Oriental White-eye 1, Black Drongo 4, Large-billed Crow 15, Chestnut-tailed Starling 2, Common Myna 6, Tree Sparrow 10, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch 1.

orchids on a tree by the trail

30 years ago: 1 June 1982, Langtang Trek day 16, Thore Pati to Pati Bhanjyang

Tuesday 1st June 1982:  Thore Pati to Pati Bhanjyang (16 miles)

We had another late start after a good night’s sleep.  There were excellent mountain views from south of Thore Pati, including Everest and Kachenjunga in the distance, although the clouds soon came in and blotted them out.  We slowly walked to Kutumsang (8000 ft) birding on the way without seeing a tremendous amount.  We arrived there at 15:00 but the village was deserted so we decided to push on keen to avoid another night sleeping in a hut or under a rock.  We ended up hurrying on to Pati Bhanjyang (5800 ft) to get to a decent lodge and then have an easy walk to Kathmandu the following day.  The trail down to Pati Bhanjyang was very bad with loose gravel and rocks all over the place but we made it in 3.5hrs when our guide book suggested 5.5 hours for this section!  From Thore Pati we had descended 6000 ft and for first time ever I found ascents much easier on my lungs and legs.  On the ast section the climb from Gul Bhanjyang (7000 ft) of 1300 ft must have been done in record time for me, following Dave & Nick all the way and hardly dropping behind at all (usually I find myself going much slower up hills and consequently get left far behind).  When we arrived at the lodge I had 7 of my 38 packets of biscuits left – just about enough for another day!  I finished off my letters in the lodge so they could be posted when we returned to Kathmandu.  Tomorrow I’ll have been in Nepal three months and my visa will have expired, although hopefully it won’t be a problem renewing it.  It has been a really excellent visit with most of my target species seen but I’m ready for a change of country.  I will also be glad to see the end of trekking for a while as great as it is, and I’m really pleased to have done the three treks I have, I’m not and never have been too keen on carrying a rucksack around most days.

Birds recorded:  Kestrel h, Common Hill Partridge h, Impeyan Pheasant 1 male, Large Hawk Cuckoo h, Cuckoo h, Oriental Cuckoo h, Little Cuckoo h, Mountain Scops Owl h, Himalayan Swiftlet 40, White-throated Needletail 1, Fork-tailed Swift 5, Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker 1, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker 1, Red-rumped Swallow 3, Asiatic House Martin 2, Upland Pipit h, Olive-backed Pipit 5, Rosy Pipit 5, Long-tailed Minivet 2, White-cheeked Bulbul 5, Rufous-breasted Accentor 1, Golden Bush Robin 3, White-browed Bush Robin 3, Stonechat 1, Grey Bushchat 1, River Chat 2, Blue-headed Rock Thrush 1, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush 1, White-collared Blackbird 3, Aberrant Bush Warbler 1, Rufous-capped Bush Warbler 1, Golden-spectacled Warbler 2, Blyth’s Crowned Leaf Warbler 1, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler 3, Siberian Flycatcher 2, Ultramarine Flycatcher 7, Streaked Laughingthrush 1, Black-faced Laughingthrush 2, Red-headed Laughingthrush 1, Hoary Barwing 2, Chestnut-tailed Minla 2, White-browed Fulvetta 5, Black-capped Sibia 2, Stripe-throated Yuhina 4, Rufous-vented Yuhina 4, Rufous-fronted Tit 2, Red-headed Tit 10, Black-crested Tit 4, Green-backed Tit 2, White-tailed Nuthatch 2, Fire-tailed Sunbird 5, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker 1, Black Drongo 2, Nutcracker 4, Large-billed Crow 6, Common Myna 2, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch 1, Dark-breasted Rosefinch 5, Pink-browed Rosefinch 3, White-browed Rosefinch 4, Allied Grosbeak 2, White-winged Grosbeak 8.

looking west to Gopte and Laurebina Pass from Thore Pati, the roof of our hut in the foreground

a similar view showing more of the hut at Thore Pati

view south from above Thore Pati

view east from above Thore Pati, Everest and Lhotse on the horizon to the right

view east from south of Thore Pati, Everest and Lhotse centre left, Kachenjung centre right

distant Himalayan views on descent to Kutumsang

close up Himalayan views on descent to Kutumsang   

mountains soon to be obscured by clouds

30 years ago: 31 May 1982, Langtang Trek day 15, Gopte to Thore Pati

Monday 31st May 1982:  Gopte to Thore Pati (4 miles)

We had another good night’s sleep, so much so that we were up late.  We slowly made our way through the beautiful forest, descending 1000 ft to cross a small tributary before climbing up to Thore Pati (11,500 ft).  We had many long stops overlooking ravines and gulleys along the way.  I finished my last 400 ASA film on pair of Beautiful Bush Robins which I later found the nest of - the female sitting tight in a hole directly under the path.  Excellent, although I later found out from Carol Inskipp that the nest hadn’t been described and wished I’d taken more photos of it.  We stayed in a hut with only a partial roof at Thore Pati, arriving at 16:00 and being joined there by a rather noisy VSO ex-pat (the only other person seen today).  It was then too cloudy to then go birding which was just as well as a very violent storm hit us just before dark with water dripping through the roofed part of the hut and hailstones coming in the unroofed part.  We sat around a fire we’d eventually made until most of the storm was over, then crashed out.

Birds recorded:  Sparrowhawk 1, Upland Buzzard 2, Common Hill Partridge h, Blood Pheasant 1 male and 1 female, Impeyan Pheasant 1 male and 1 female, Large Hawk Cuckoo h, Cuckoo h, Oriental Cuckoo h, Little Cuckoo h, Asiatic House Martin 3, Rosy Pipit 3, Long-tailed Minivet 2, Rufous-breasted Accentor 1, Red-flanked Bluetail 1, Golden Bush Robin 2, White-browed Bush Robin 2, Beautiful Bush Robin 4, Blue-fronted Redstart 2, River Chat 2, White’s Thrush 1, White-collared Blackbird 2, Aberrant Bush Warbler 5, Rufous-capped Bush Warbler 2, Golden-spectacled Warbler 3, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler 5, Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler 1, Lemon-rumped Warbler 2, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher 6, Yellow-bellied Fantail 4, Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler 2, Black-faced Laughingthrush 3, Fire-tailed Myzornis 2, White-browed Fulvetta 1, Black-capped Sibia 3, Stripe-throated Yuhina 3, Rufous-vented Yuhina 5, Black-crested Tit 1, Fire-tailed Sunbird 10, Gold-billed Blue Magpie 2, Large-billed Crow 4, Dark-breasted Rosefinch 3, Pink-browed Rosefinch 2, White-browed Rosefinch 3, Red-headed Bullfinch 3, Allied Grosbeak 3, White-winged Grosbeak 2.

male Beautiful (Rufous-bellied) Bush Robin on the way to Thore Pati 

  

a stunning bird

female Beautiful (Rufous-bellied) Bush Robin near nest hole

looking west on approach to Thore Pati

view from Thore Pati looking back west

30 years ago: 30 May 1982, Langtang Trek day 14, rock to cave

Sunday 30th May 1982:  Overhanging rock to Gopte (4 miles)

A good night’s sleep under our overhanging rock, we woke at 05:00 to find the sky was clear.  We breakfasted, packed and left at 06:00 to slowly walk to Gopte (11,700 ft), basically contouring around very rough country, with a few ups and downs along the way.  It was very nice until the clouds came in soon after 11:00.  The cloud cleared at 12:00 with a brief rain shower, and visibility was then good until 17:00 when we reached the hut above Gopte (gopte being the Nepali for cave, although this one was little better than the overhanging rock we'd stayed under the previous night).  We saw two more Gould’s Shortwings, the second singing its heart out in pouring rain.  These, Beautiful (Rufous-breasted) and White-browed Bush Robins in consecutive ravines and a Fire-tailed Myzornis feeding on a small, moss covered waterfall made it another brilliant day.  We decided to stay at Gopte for the night and all wandered off for a look around but we saw little as cloud descended.  The only other person seen all day was a local hunter looking somewhat sinister on a distant hillside.  A year later Alan Adams, a particularly good friend of Nick’s, tragically went missing in this area.  No trace of him was ever found.  Alan was a fantastically keen birder and very nice guy to go with it.  It was assumed he’d slipped and fallen in the very rough country but stories of attacks on trekkers in remote areas of Nepal were not completely unheard of and hearing the shocking and very sad news my thoughts, probably with no justification whatsoever, briefly turned to the local hunter we had seen distantly.  Much more likely he’d followed a shortwing down a steep gully and fallen.

Birds recorded:  Upland Buzzard 2, Common Hill Partridge h, Blood Pheasant 2 males and 4 females, Impeyan Pheasant 1 male and 3 females, Large Hawk Cuckoo h, Cuckoo h, Little Cuckoo h, Eagle Owl h, Himalayan Swiftlet 5, Asiatic House Martin 2, Rosy Pipit 5, Wren 4, Rufous-breasted Accentor 1, Gould’s Shortwing 2, Golden Bush Robin 7, White-browed Bush Robin 1, Beautiful Bush Robin 6, Blue-fronted Redstart 2, River Chat 6, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush 1, Blue Whistling Thrush 2, Plain-backed Mountain Thrush 1, Aberrant Bush Warbler 2, Rufous-capped Bush Warbler 13, Golden-spectacled Warbler 4, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler 3, Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler 1, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher 2, Yellow-bellied Fantail 3, Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler 2, Black-faced Laughingthrush 4, Fire-tailed Myzornis 5, White-browed Fulvetta 8, Grey-crested Tit 1, Black-crested Tit 2, Stoliczka’s Treecreeper 1, Common Treecreeper 2, Fire-tailed Sunbird 15, Large-billed Crow 2, Dark-breasted Rosefinch 2, Pink-browed Rosefinch 2, White-browed Rosefinch 2, White-winged Grosbeak 10.

very rough country looking west from Gopte, the Laurebina Pass is over the far ridge

Fire-tailed Myzornis near Gopte.  With a name like that it is bound to be a stunner, and it is, just not in this photo!