Sunday, 27 September 2026

PAPUA NEW GUINEA 2026 Part two: Huon & hotel gardens (07-10 August)

PAPUA NEW GUINEA 2026 Part two: Huon & hotel gardens

Friday 07 August 2026. We had breakfast at 05:30, departed from Crossroads at 06:00 and arrived at the charter entrance to Lae airport soon after 06:30. It was with some relief that we learned that the spare part had arrived the previous evening and had been fitted. We went through the weighing process again, saw Plumed Egret, Singing Bush Lark and Tree Sparrows and boarded the flight at about 07:30. Our pilot demonstrated why the P-750 was an XSTOL (Extra Short Take Off and Landing) getting us airborne, fully loaded, in under 800ft! It was a short hop over the mountains to the small coastal fishing village of Wasu where we arrived at about 08:00. A small crowd was gathered although they mainly appeared to be children on their way to school. A quick turn around by our plane left us waiting but before we could feel abandoned our arranged vehicle, a very uncomfortable flat-bed truck soon appeared. We climbed aboard and drove to a shop in the village where we stocked up with water, fruit, rice and some tins, all of which would have been too heavy to carry by plane. The shop had a range of more general goods and was presumably provisioned by an irregular ferry - a regular one might be a more reliable option than flying? At the shop I replaced the cap I'd lost/left in the taxi at Varirata on our first day. It was Chinese, cost about £3, and I've been wearing it ever since. We headed up a rough dirt road into the hills, sharing the back of the truck with our provisions and a few locals. I had flyaway views of 2 Pesquet's Parrots and 2 Great Woodswallows but it was hard to hold binoculars steady from the back of the truck. We arrived at Huon Birding Camp at 10:35 and dumped our bags. While tents and camp beds were being set up we birded up the road for a couple of hours before returning for lunch. I had a distant, barely identifiable view of a Black-mantled Goshawk (I'd not taken a scope which would have been useful) and saw 3 Huon Astrapias briefly in flight. After lunch we drove lower down to look for Emperor Bird of Paradise and soon heard a couple of males calling some way below the road. A trail led in the right direction and a fledgling was seen almost immediately but the males never seemed to get any closer despite our going some way down and low cloud rolled in. We returned to the road obtaining brief views of a female near where the fledgling had been. Two of the three endemic BoPs seen but neither were at all satisfactory. We were back at the camp at 18:00 and after a decent meal we tried spotlingting up the road for a couple of hours. This proved much more successful than our birding during daylight with good views of Feline and Mountain Owlet-Nightjars, a male Red-breasted Pygmy-Parrot, Brown-breasted Gerygone, Red-collared Myzomela, Olive Straightbill, Black-breasted Boatbill, Fan-tailed Berrypecker and Slaty Robin. Other birds seen during the day included Mountain Myzomela, 6 Grey Crows, Canary Flyrobin and 2 Island Leaf Warblers. Not a great start, at least in terms of views obtained of the better birds in daylight, but at least we'd made it to Huon.

replacement part fitted and tested
loading the hold
refueling
onboard and ready to leave

crossing the Huon Mountains
so much good forest below although we wouldn't be reaching this elevation


Wasu landing strip
a quick turnaround


Nick and my tent, relatively tidy but we'd only just arrived
our view
our neighbours
a bit of protein with our bananas
Emperor Bird-of-Paradise fledgling

Mountain Owlet-Nightjar above Huon Birding Camp


Olive Straightbill above Huon Birding Camp

Feline Owlet-Nightjar above Huon Birding Camp


Saturday 08 August 2026. We were the first group at the camp for over 18 months and possibly as a result there seemed to be some issues around local knowledge and access for, in particular, Bird of Paradise and Bowerbird display areas. We were told there were two Wahne's Parotia hides, one seating 2 and the other 4 although it wasn't clear where they were or how much they were being used. We set off up the road after an early breakfast and after about half an hour stopped by a narrow trail that dropped steeply into a foresed valley. This was apparently the way to a/both Parotia hide/s but it was quite a long way. How far?? The ladies stayed on the road while the rest of us set off down the trail but after 10 minutes, by which time we'd dropped a fair distance, Dani called a halt to check whether we wanted to continue. He apparently tried to disuade us but maybe I didn't hear that. Having come this far it seemed foolish not to go on although the lack of knowledge in whaty awaited us was a bit of a concern. Dani went back, we continued with three guides. For me it was to be a very big mistake. Easy with hindsight to bail out and let some of the others try it out knowing we had a couple of hours, but no more, the following morning if they were successful. Easy with hindsight. We continued dropping splitting into 3 and 2, me the first of the three. Given the hide sizes I assumed we three were heading for the four seater but on arrival it seemed clear it was only for two and my being first had to shuffle to the far side, where viewing was very restricted, so Nick who was third could get in at all. I was somewhat dismayed that the ground infront of the hide was covered in several layers of leaves, in complete contrast to dancing floors I'd seen in West Papua. I asked the guide where the bird appeared and an angled trunk was pointed out. If I leant into Chris and closed one eye I could just about see it, rather uncomfortably. We were in the hide for over an hour and I saw absolutely nothing. Nick and Chris saw a distant dark shape fly through the background that might have been a parotia or a bowerbird. We left the hide and were surprised to find Jurgen and Andrew with a guide 2-300 metres back up the track. They'd not been taken to the other hide but were waiting to try ours. With our lack of success we all headed back to the road. Dani was waiting having had a decent couple of hours with Norma and Helena. He and Helena had seen a Wahne's Parotia fly over from theback of the truck as they were driving further up the road and they'd all had good views of Spangled Honeyeater and better views of Black-mantled Goshawk and Huon Astrapia. We all birded the road for an hour, me getting another brief flight view of a Huon Astrapia, but the clouds rolled in and we returned for lunch. I'd seen a couple of interesting shapes in the gloom that might, in better weather, have been Spangled Honeyeaters but very little else. After lunch we headed lower down to a different Emperor Bird of Paradise display tree. Fortunately we dropped below the clouds but on the guides recomendation that we'd be watching the BoPs from under the tree left telescopes behind. After a 15 minute walk we arrived at a dwelling on a fairly open ridge which overlooked at some distance an open tree with several male and female Emperor Birds of Paradise jumping around on open branches. Close they were not, infact too distant for me to even attempt photos, although I now wish I had. One of the guides was sent back for telescopes (Norma had brought one too) but as might have been predicted, given how things were going, the clouds rolled in and the birds dispersed before they returned. At least we'd seen males but not the hoped for Bird of the Trip performance. Another spotlighting session produced Rufous-backed Honeyeater, Red-collared Myzomela, Fan-tailed Berrypecker, Slaty Robin and Papuan White-eye. It was definitely easier to see birds spotlighted at night, they just sat there before flying off before I could get my bins on them. Despite this issue during the day I also saw 2 Amboyna Cuckoo-Doves, Coconut Lorikeet, Brown-breasted Gerygone, Marbled Honeyeater, Helmetted Friarbird, Cinnamon-browed Melidectes, bits of a Tit Berrypecker, 2 Regent and a Brown-backed Whistler, 2 Black and 2 Northern Fantails, Black Monarch, a smart Black-throated Robin, Island Leaf Warbler and Papuan White-eye. I also heard but failed to see Orange-crowned Fairywren, Spotted Jewel-babbler, Greater Lophorina and Growling Riflebird. Nothing was seen well/close enough to warrant attempting photos, a rather sad state of affairs.

Sunday 09 August 2026. Our last morning at Huon although as we had to leave camp at 10:00 it was to be a rather short morning. After an early breakfast we drove up the road to the area we'd been in the clouds the previous day. Fortunately it was clear and a few birds were active, one called as a Dwarf Koel flew into the top of a distant tree. I couldn't get any detail on it through binoculars. I switched to camera in the hope of obtaining an identifiable image but couldn't find it, it had flown and was later reidentified as a female parotia.  A couple of Spangled Honeyeaters zipped back and forth across the road but dived into cover before I could see them. We went 50m along a trail to where we'd heard Spotted Jewel-Babbler. It called distantly but wasn't responding. I returned to the road hoping for an identifiable view of Spangled Honeyeater and was soon joined by Nick. One soon flew across and landed but with its head obscured for me. Nick, a few metres away, had a clear view of it and went back onto the trail. I stayed out feeling I needed to see the bright yellow facial wattle and five minutes later, for about 5 seconds, I had an identifiable view of a Spangled Honeyeater. I quickly joined the others, now 150m further down the trail, to discover they'd had eyeball views of a Spangled Honeyeater, seen a skulky New Guinea Bronzewing and you've guessed it a Wahne's Parotia feeding high in a tree. I hung around the parotia tree for a while but nothing was moving so I joined the others at a viewpoint. Here a Mountain Kingfisher flew high into a tree above us where it gave reasonable views. We were now running short of time and headed out to the road, walking down a short way to where the truck was waiting for us. Before reaching the truck fate played a final wind-up. I saw a striking butterfly (or moth?) and while stopping to photogaph it heard Dani shout 'Wahne's Parotia'. He and those nearest him saw it as it flew out of a nearby tree and disappeared. That effectively was it, my long standing desire to visit the Huon had turned out to be a huge disappointment. Whether a later charter to Lae and an extra few hours that morning would have made a difference I'll never know, although I felt sure the lost day had. We returned to camp, picked up our bags and drove down to the coast. Other birds I saw during our final few hours on the Huon included 8 Papuan Mountain Pigeons, 3 Mountain Swiftlet, 2 Marbled and a Black-throated Honeyeater, Black-breasted Boatbill, Regent Whistler, 3 Huon Astrapias incuding one perched briefly, Canary Flyrobin, Papuan Grassbird and Island Leaf Warbler while Lesser Melampitta was heard distantly.

Our charter flight to Lae was scheduled for 11:00 and arrived on time. We were back at Lae and transferred to the Crosroads for lunch. We were not flying from Lae to Port Morseby until the following morning so I was hopeful of an afternoon trip to Merambi Bridge and improved Edwards's Fig Parrot views but the Crossroads gardens for the 4th time was all that was on offer. I saw included a Pinon and 40 Torresian Imperial Pigeons, 2 Orange-bellied Fruit-Doves, 3 Blyth's Hornbills, Sacred Kingfisher, 2 Sulphur-crested Cocatoos, 3 Papuan Eclectuses, 2 Red-cheeked Parrots, 20 Dusky Lorys, 2 Coconut Lorikeets, 2 Scrub Honeyeaters, 2 Brown Orioles, 3 Yellow-faced Mynas and 10 Shining Starlings.

Mountain Kingfisher above Huon Birding Camp
Mirionia paradisea, the day flying moth that might have cost me a Parotia view

preparing to load up (registration P2-NCA?)
leaving Wasu just 48 hours after we had arrived
last view of Wasu
braided river near Lae (registration on wing P2-ANH??)
Yellow-faced Mynas at Crossroads

Monday 10 August 2026. E
arly breakfast and an hours wander around Crossroads Gardens before getting the bus to the airport. At Crossroads and Lae's Nadzab airport I saw 60 Torresian Imperial Pigeons, 2 Variable Goshawks, 2 Plumed Egrets, a Brahminy and 12 Black Kites, 2 Sacred Kingfishers, 2 Papuan Eclectuses, 4 Helmetted Friarbirds, 2 White-bellied Cuckooshrikes, Brown Oriole, 4 Willie Wagtails, 4 Pacific Swallows, 3 Yellow-faced Mynas and 5 Tree Sparrows - much as on the four previous occasions. Our Lae to Port Moresby flight was on time and we were back at Airways by lunchtime. Nothing had been organised for the afternoon and as it was hot Nick and I left it until 16:30 for a wander around the hotel gardens. We saw Torresian Imperial Pigeon, 2 Peaceful Doves, 2 Fawn-breasted Bowerbirds, 3 Rufous-banded and 4 Yellow-tinted Honeyeaters, 2 Black-faced Cuckooshrikes, 6 White-breasted Woodswallows, 2 Willie Wagtails, a Torresian Crow and 15 Tree Sparrows.

Fawn-breasted Bowerbirds at Airways
Yellow-tinted Honeyeater at Airways



Brahminy Kite at Airways

Torresian Imperial Pigeon at Airways


Saturday, 26 September 2026

John Cooper 1941-2026

John Cooper, a very good friend since the 1980s, died in May after a long illness. Until Covid I spent a lot of time birding with John, in Sussex (particularly at Beachy Head) and on various twitches in mainland UK. With other friends John and I visited Madagascar in 1995, the Philippines in 1996 and Japan in 2003.

I was approached and agreed to write John's obituary for the Sussex Ornithology Society. As with most things I agree to do it took a lot longer than anticipated and my thanks go to Doreen and Dave for filling in and firming up many of the details.  

An edited version appeared in the Autumn Newsletter but not everyone reading this blog who knew John will have access to it so the original with a couple more photos follows. The edit took out a few details which I thought were of interest.


John Frederick Cooper (JFC) was born in July 1941 in Tolworth (Surrey), the youngest of three brothers. He died peacefully in a nursing home in Burgess Hill in May 2026 following a long illness.

John joined Surbiton Bird Club with middle brother Barry in 1949 starting a lifelong obsession with birds for them both, having initially caught the bug when taken to Richmond Park and Epsom Sewage Farm by older brother Brian. They were soon enjoying watching breeding pairs of Red-backed Shrikes within walking distance of their home. Taking their bicycles on the train to see the UK’s first breeding Collared Doves in Norfolk in the mid-1950’s showed an early interest in rarities although ringing migrant passerines was to become John’s main interest for many years.

John left school at 15 and joined the Post Office as counter staff. He met Doreen at a dance in March 1960. Later that year John formed the Beachy Head Ringing Group (BHRG) with Barry, Tony Quinn and Mike Nolan, setting nets at the ‘Z-Bends’ scrub (still known by local birdwatchers as ‘The Old Trapping Area’) with Doreen as scribe, recording ringing details. They visited Beachy mostly on Sundays with Doreen on the back of John’s motorbike clutching mist-net poles! In 1962 ringing was moved to Whitbread Hollow where it remains. To date over 186,000 birds have been ringed on Beachy Head.

John and Doreen married in 1964 and moved to Boston, Lincolnshire, somewhere convenient to birdwatch on the east coast. John continued ringing, settling on Huttoft Bank as a likely location. This proved to be an excellent choice when he trapped Britain’s first mainland Dusky Warbler that November. John made an overland birding trip to Greece in 1966 giving him a first taste of birding abroad. David was born in 1968 and that autumn John first visited the Isles of Scilly finding a male ‘Subalpine’ Warbler and seeing Britain’s second Northern Waterthrush.

Keen to return to the South Coast John followed up a national advert for recruitment to the Midland Bank and started at the Eastbourne branch in 1969. The young family moved into a rented chalet opposite Beachy Head Hotel. Although very convenient for ringing before and after work their Health Visitor felt the chalet was unsuitable for a toddler and they moved into Eastbourne. The Chalet later became a Natural History Museum before being destroyed by a suspicious fire.

Good finds at this time included the county’s first Red-throated Pipit in October 1969 and a Nutcracker in August 1970. On 18 October 1974 John trapped the first Sussex Dusky Warbler in Whitbread Hollow (to add to his first Lincolnshire record), amazingly on the same day the county’s first Radde’s Warbler was trapped by Roger Charlwood at nearby Hodcombe. Four days later 19 Rough-legged Buzzards came in off the sea at Beachy, one of John’s most memorable experiences. In 1974 and 1975 Sussex Bird Reports John published ‘Bird Population Trends as Shown by Ringing’ from 1964-74 BHRG data and ‘An Analysis of the Spring Sea-watches at Beachy Head’ from 1960-75 sea-watching data. John was a member of the SOS Records Committee from 1976-85 and the Sussex Recorder in 1977 but writing all the species accounts for the 1976 Bird Report impeded his time in the field and he handed over to Mike Rogers.

John and David Cooper in Whitbread Hollow, Beachy Head, Autumn 1970

Their first of many visits to Shetland was in 1978 when younger son Terry was seven. Highlights were seeing Black-browed Albatross and Snowy Owl, identifying a Saker Falcon and finding a male Rustic Bunting. In 1979 John was promoted to the bank’s Crawley branch and they moved to Burgess Hill. Ringing at Beachy Head before/after work was no longer practical so John concentrated on birding there. His dedication to Spring sea-watching from Birling Gap led to him being the first to see over 100 Pomarine Skuas in a day in Sussex (on 7th May 1981 – something he repeated on 5th May 2014).

John took the family on annual camping trips around Europe often to coincide with Spring migration and extended autumn half-term holidays to the Isles of Scilly from 1979-83. John’s enjoyment seeing Nearctic vagrants there led to the family visiting Maryland (and brother Barry), Texas, California/Arizona and Florida in the mid-1980s. These extended horizons albeit he remained just as passionate about birding at Beachy Head where he found yet another Dusky Warbler - the County’s second - in October 1991.

John ended his career as Operations Manager in Horsham and was granted early retirement from the bank in 1992. He became a full-time birdwatcher, although to some it was hard to tell the difference. When not chasing rarities the length and breadth of Britain and Eire he concentrated on Beachy Head between extended periods on Shetland or trips abroad.

In 1994 John found a Booted Warbler at Beachy Head in June and a Chestnut Bunting, a potential first for Britain, on Shetland in September. In Spring 1997 he spent over a month helping set up a ringing station in the Jordan Valley. John saw over 100 Honey Buzzards at Beachy Head in Autumn 2000, including 63 departing south on 30 September. He documented it in ‘The Influx of Honey Buzzards and Other Raptors in Sussex During Autumn 2000’ in the 2000 Sussex Bird Report. In August 2002 John helped identify the first Sussex Sykes’s Warbler.

John in Madagascar in 1995 with Nick Preston, Barry Stidolph and me (photo taken by our driver Terry)

John birdwatched widely in Asia, Africa, the Americas and Australasia seeing around half of the world’s bird species. He particularly enjoyed the excitement of finding his own birds and most trips were done independently, often on a diet of bread and bananas as he couldn’t abide rice! He had contributions from several trips published in Birding World and the Bulletin of the Oriental Bird Club.

John, me and Dave Sargeant in Japan in 2005. John King was with us and took the photo

John and Doreen particularly enjoyed cruises, often finding greatly discounted rates at short notice. They included Antarctica, ensuring that John would travel to every continent in search of birds, and various parts of the Pacific. In 2007, on a cruise to the Canaries, John found a Tricoloured Heron during a few hours ashore, the third record for the Western Palearctic.

Diagnosed with multiple myeloma in December 2009, John was given at most two years by his Cancer specialist but continually exceeded expectations thanks to developing chemotherapy treatments although at a cost of increasingly painful side-effects. Despite this John and David wrote accounts for the rare species (just over 100 in total) in the highly acclaimed Birds of Sussex (2014). John birded in Canada in 2011, Japan in 2012 and Cyprus and Taiwan in 2013. He managed regular visits to Beachy Head and in October 2015 found the county’s first Short-toed Treecreeper in the area where he had started ringing 55 years before – his BBRC submission was judged runner-up in the Carl Zeiss Award 2016. Shetland trips continued to 2017 after which medical concerns prevented them. Autumn 2016 there was particularly memorable for finding a White’s Thrush the day after seeing Siberian Thrush and a few days before Britain’s first Siberian Accentor.

Doreen and John at Point Pelle, Canada in May 2011

In April 2017 John and Doreen were in the Doctors Surgery in Burgess Hill for a routine cancer consultation when they heard about a Blue Rock Thrush at Beachy Head, a rather stressful journey ensued but they saw it. Covid was particularly hard with a shot immune system making strict isolation essential. John and Tony Quinn authored a paper in the 2022 Sussex Bird Report ‘Long term trends at Beachy Head of flycatchers, redstarts, chats and related species’ although it made rather depressing reading. As the Covid threat declined John did get out to see the Barcombe White-throated Sparrow and was still visiting Beachy Head in Spring 2022.

John has seen more bird species than anyone else in Sussex (364, over 90% of the county total). They include King Eider, Greater and Tibetan Sand Plovers, Bridled Tern, Gyr Falcon, Nutcracker, Wallcreeper and Black & White Warbler. His last addition was the White-crowned Sparrow at Seaford Head which Terry took him to see in April 2023.

John enjoyed bird photography, particularly of scarce migrants as epitomized by his image of a Japanese Waxwing on Hegura-jima in Birding World (25:485). He also contributed photos to The Handbook of the Birds of the World and from 2009-2022 updated his Beachy Head & jfcbirding blogs on an almost daily basis.

Away from birding, John had an interest in cricket and Chelsea FC. He kept a tidy garden but always had an eye to the sky, once seeing a Honey Buzzard fly over while he was cutting the lawn.

In August 2025 John was hospitalized following a bad fall. On being discharged in a very weak state he was given a life expectancy of just 7-10 days. Knowing John’s resilience his GP extended this forecast to 4-6 weeks but John lasted nine months, latterly in a nursing home with Doreen visiting every afternoon. John had great determination and didn’t know how to give up (in birding and in life). He was very knowledgeable and focused, if at times appearing a little unforgiving - definitely a birder’s birder. Beside every great man is a great woman and Doreen was most certainly that, supporting his every endeavour. She, David and Terry have our deepest sympathy.

Thursday, 17 September 2026

Shoreham including local 250th: Pallid Harrier (12-17September 2026)

Saturday 12 September 2026. Mill Hill with Megan and Otis: 2 Stock Doves, Red Kite, 2 Buzzards, 2 Ravens, Kestrel, Chiffchaff, 3 Blackcaps and a Spotted Flycatcher.

Spotted Flycatcher on Mill Hill

Sunday 13 September 2026. Adur circuit (Toll Bridge-Dogs Trust) with Megan and Otis: Black Swan and 18 Mutes, 12 Lapwing, mixed flock of 40+ Ringed Plover and Dunlin, 3 Turnstones, 6 Redshank, 77 Great Black-backed Gulls, Osprey (over the river flushing all the gulls before flying north) and single Cetti's Warbler heard, Chiffchaff and Blackcap.

Monday 14 September 2026. Beeding Hill triangle with Otis, 08:30-13:00, 38 species including 135 Canada and an Egyptian Goose, 7 Red-legged Partridges (3+4), 350 Stock Doves, 110 Woodpigeons, Golden Plover heard, 2 Sparrowhawks, Red Kite, 4 Buzzards, 4 Kestrels, Peregrine (taking a pigeon), Jay heard, 4 Ravens, 80 Swallows (heading SE), 2 House Martins, 8 Chiffchaffs, 2 Blackcaps, Whitethroat, 4 Stonechats, Wheatear, Yellow Wagtail heard, 15 Meadow Pipits, 220 Linnets, 120 Goldfinches and 45 Corn Buntings.

Stonechat at Cowbottom
Canada Geese at Coombes, not lone Egyptian Goose top right
Kestrel near Steepdown


Tuesday 15 September 2026. Steyning Round Hill-No Mans Land circuit, 07:45-12:45 with CH, RP & Otis: Sparrowhawk, juvenile Pallid Harrier (found on 14th by Ollie Davis👍), 6 Red Kites, 3 Buzzards, Hobby, 2 Kestels, 3 Skylarks, Sand Martin, 100+ Swallows, House Martin, Raven heard, Whitethroat, Whinchat, 2 Stonechats, 100+ Goldfinches and 30+ Corn Buntings. The Pallid Harrier was the 250th species I've seen within 10km of our home in Shoreham( although 7 were before we moved there in 1989 - I was living in Hove and still within 10km). Introduced White Storks and a White-tailed Eagle are not included but Category C species such as Egyptian Goose and Ring-necked Parakeet are).

first seen stood on a distant fencepost on the Monarch's Way (viewed from the parallel footpath to the north)
the head pattern was quite striking even at range (although fortunaltey I had my telescope). Its bright yellow legs also stood out.
my third Pallid Harrier in Sussex (all since 2011 and all in the West (The Burgh, Thorney Deeps and now No Mans Land)
I've seen 6 Montagu's Harrier in Sussex including one in the this bock of Downs in 1999, the most recent being in 2002. Quite a change in fortunes.








Wednesday 16 September 2026. Widewater-Lancing Sailing Club with Megan and Otis: Sandwich Tern 2W, Swallow 25NW, House Martin 1 NW, Wheatear 11 on beach/groynes and Meadow Pipit 32NW.
Wheatear on Widewater Beach


Thursday 17 September 2026. Widewater seawatch, 07:35-09:05, mod SW, wet, poor viz. Common Scoter 3W, Gannet 98W. Buckingham Park with Megan and Otis, showers. 10 Blue Tits and a Goldcrest.