Introduction: I visited Eaglenest in
April 2007 (here) and although
it was a good trip I had missed a few birds making it a part of the world I was
keen to return to. When Nick Preston suggested I join him on a short winter trip
there with Ornis Birding Expeditions I didn't require much persuasion - some tantalising new birds,
renewing acquaintance with some old favourites and the hope of better views of Ward's
Trogon immediately came to mind. This is the first of three blogs giving my take on the trip. New birds for me are
shown in red. Unless stated otherwise photos are mine, the birds and most views taken with a Sony RX10iv bridge camera.
Wednesday 08 January. Megan
dropped me at the National Express bus stop in Shoreham about 10 minutes before
my 22:20 bus to Heathrow was due. My long journey had begun.
Thursday 09 January. I arrived
at Terminal 3 soon after 01:00, slept fitfully on an uncomfortable chair until the
Terminal came to life and checked in with Nick, who had been in an airport hotel,
soon after 06:00. Our seven hour flight departed at 09:10 arriving in Dubai at 20:00
local time in very comfortable Airbus A380. One of the best flights I can remember
with reasonable leg room, an impressive range of entertainments and decent food.
Another doze in Dubai on marginally less uncomfortable chairs followed, waiting
to check in for our connecting flight.
Friday 10 January. We departed
from Dubai at 02:00 on an Emirates Boeing 777 to Kolkata where we arrived at 07:40
local time and cleared immigration with no issues. A Black Kite and 4 Common
Mynas were seen from the airport. Our Indigo flight to Dibrugah was on time,
departing at 14:00 and arriving at 15:40. After collecting our bags we met recently
arrived Mika from Finland and Mike from Canada who were also on the tour. Middle
aged (or older in my case) birders are usually easy to spot in foreign airports
even if binoculars are still packed. We were met by one of our drivers who took
us to the Hotel Centre Point in Tinsukia on a good road although being India there
were a few cows and dogs to avoid. And a few obvious birds, from a back seat I saw
White-breasted Waterhen, Indian Pond Heron, Western Cattle Egret
and 10 Common Mynas. We checked in and joined the rest of the group for a
meal, they'd arrived that morning and had visited some grasslands seeing, amongst
others, a male Chinese Rubythroat. A good group as it turned out with Max from Holland,
Chris a Brit mostly living in Australia and another Nick, also a Brit. Josh and
Rofik were our guides.
Saturday 11 January. We left
at 05:30 and drove in a convoy of three 4WDs for almost an hour to Dibou-Saikhoma
National Park. There in very poor visibility we drove through a tea plantation to
the edge of the River Lohit, a tributary of the Brahmaputra. There several 4-5 seater
dug out canoes were waiting to ferry us across to a large grassy river island, currently
invisible in the foggy conditions. Nick and I were in the first canoe and soon could
neither see our destination nor those hopefully following behind. After what seemed
an age paddling against quite a strong current the island emerged out of the fog.
Our boatman didn't seem sure of where to land but found somewhere a bit further
upstream to tie up and we wandered around for a while waiting for the others to
appear. With no sign of them after 10-15 minutes we tried a few 100m further down
river with similar effect. While wondering what to do the fog cleared a bit and
we saw one of the other canoes looking for us. They indicated we should be further
up river and with our boatman undecided we ended up pushing our way along an overgrown
riverside path to pretty close to where we'd first landed. Together again we started
birding in the tall grass soon finding our main targets, for me 2 each of Black-breasted Parrotbill, Jerdon's Babbler and
Swamp Grass Babbler but I only saw Marsh Babbler in flight. Also on the island
were a ringtail Hen Harrier, 6 Sand Larks, Delicate Prinia,
4 Striated Babblers, 8 Siberian Stonechats, an Eastern Yellow, 2
Citrine and 2 White Wagtails and a Rosy Pipit. We returned across
the river to the tea plantations and birded some remnant forested patches at Beraku
Wildlife Sanctuary looking primarily for Rusty-belied Shortwing although I only
managed poor views (what was sadly to become a bit of a recurring theme for me with
small birds in dark places). An Abbott's Babbler was little compensation.
After a lunch stop where we were entertained by several Dusky and Greenish
Warblers, Common Tailorbirds, Indian White-eyes, a female Daurian
Resdstart and a Little Pied Flycatcher we split into two groups. I opted
for another try at the shortwing with Rofik and the two Nicks, the others returning
to grassland visited the previous day. We'd failed completely on our return to the
shortwing site but Rofik knew another at a nearby small holding where he enticed
a male Rusty-bellied Shortwing into view.
Nice bird, as was an a mobile Slaty-bellied Tesia. We joined the others at
the Maguribeel grasslands but the light was going and we saw little. We were back
in Tinsukia after dark. During the day I had also seen 20 Lesser Whistling Duck,
60 Ruddy Shelduck, 8 Indian Spot-billed Duck, 6 Ferruginous Duck,
2 Asian Openbills, Lesser Adjutant, 6 Little Cormorants,
Little Egret, 3 Indian Pond Herons, 2 Eastern Cattle Egrets, Asian
Barred Owlet, White-throated and Pied Kingfishers, Black-hooded
Oriole, White-throated Fantail, Grey-backed Shrike, 4 Cinereous
Tits, 6 Red-vented Bulbuls, Grey-throated Martin, 20 Barn Swallows,
3 Yellow-browed and a Tickell's Warbler and an Olive-backed Pipit.
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| Black-breasted Parrotbill in Dibou-Saikhoma National Park |
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| Jerdon's Babbler in Dibou-Saikhoma National Park |
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| Asian Barred Owlet in Dibou-Saikhoma National Park |
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| hotel window view, Tinsukia |
Sunday 12 January. We left
Tinsukia at 05:15 and drove to a forest patch in Digboi Oilfields where we had
breakfast then birded from 06:30-08:30. Our main target was Chestnut-backed Laughingthrush, skulky like most
laughingthrushes but we had reasonable views of 2 or 3 in a small mixed Greater
and Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush flock. Four Collared Treepies nearby
were much more obliging while a Spotted Elachura remained in a dense
thicket long enough for me to get a view. We moved on to the Dihing Patkai
National Park where birded to 16:20 with a break for lunch. Here for me the
highlight was 2-3 Grey-lored Broadbills with
a supporting case of an excellent White-browed Piculet, Yellow-bellied,
Rufous-faced, White-spectacled, Chestnut-crowned and Yellow-vented
Warblers, Rufous-throated and 2 Nepal Fulvettas and a brief
view of an Orange-headed Ground Thrush. I also had disappointing views
of 4 White-winged Duck and heard Grey Peacock-Pheasant and a close White-cheeked
Partridge, some seeing the latter and a flock of Long-tailed Broadbills which
was as gripping. The return drive to Tinsukia took over 90 minutes, not helped
by heavy traffic – bikes, rickshaws, jeeps and trucks. Other birds for me
included 2 female Red Jungle Fowl, 30 Yellow-footed and a Pin-tailed
Green Pigeon, Crested Serpent Eagle, Collared Owlet (heard), White-throated
Kingfisher, Pied Falconet, 2 Scarlet Minivets, Black-headed
and Maroon Orioles, Bronzed Drongo, Grey-backed Shrike, Jay,
2 Sultan Tits, 2 Ashy and a Black-crested Bulbul, Pygmy
Wren-Babbler (heard), Mountain Tailorbird, 3 Pin-striped
Tit-Babblers, Velvet-fronted and Chestnut-bellied Nuthatches,
Indian Pied Myna, Blue-throated Blue Flycatcher, Blue-winged
Leafbird and Black-throated and Crimson Sunbirds.
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| Collared Treepie at Digboi Oilfields |
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| Grey-lored Broadbill at Dihing Patkai National Park (photo: Josh Bergmark), one of my most wanted birds |
Monday 13 January. We left
Tinsukia at 05:00 and arrived at Dihing Patkai National Park at 06:15 where we
birded to 12:00 concentrating first on a forest clearing at Margherita we’d
visited twice the previous day. This time, after what seemed like quite a long
wait but probably wasn’t much more than half an hour, a pair of Pale-capped Pigeon flew into a tree top. An
increasingly hard to find species. Next an allegedly semi-tame male Grey Peacock Pheasant took
a bit of tracking down before giving itself up spectacularly. The same was true
of a calling White-cheeked Partridge, apart
from the spectacularly bit, my views were brief but good. Other birds at Dihing
Patkai were Asian Emerald Dove, Blue-throated Barbet, Pied
Falconet, a heard Blue-naped Pitta (although my mono hearing may not have
differentiated it calling from playback), 3 Rufous Treepies and Black-backed
Forktail. The Asian Emerald Dove flew in through the forest and was
about to land in the Peacock-Pheasant tree but saw us and shot off flushing the
Grey Peacock-Pheasant as it did so. After lunch we returned to Tinsukia
and the Maguribeel grasslands on the edge of town where I saw 2 Swamp
Francolin, Red-wattled Lapwing, Green Sandpiper, Cinnamon
Bittern, Grey-sided and Spotted/Baikal Bush Warblers (in
flight - not easy to see in grass taller than I am), Striated Grassbird,
2 Siberian Stonechats and a White Wagtail. We were back at
Tinsukia after dark, a successful three days in the area although it would have
been nice to have had another day in the hope of catching up with Blue-naped
Pitta (which I’d not seen since January 1980), Long-tailed Broadbill and
Chinese Rubythroat.
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| Pale-capped Pigeon at Margherita, Dihing Patkai National Park (photo: Josh Bergmark) |
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| Grey Peacock Pheasant at Margherita, Dihing Patkai National Park |
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| Grey Peacock Pheasant at Margherita, Dihing Patkai National Park (photo: Nick Preston). Nick did as well if not better than me with his Samsung phone! |
