GALAPAGOS part 1: arrival (04-07 May 2025)

GALAPAGOS part 1: arrival (04-07 May 2025)

INTRODUCTION. I have wanted to visit the Galapagos for almost as long as I can remember although I was more interested in seeing Waved Albatrosses and Swallow-tailed Gulls than the endemic finches and mockingbirds. I went to Ecuador in August 1999 with Michael Grunwell (see here) and he tried to persuade me to go on a 4 day cruise while there but it cost $1000 (seemed a lot in those days) and more critically didn't visit Espanola where the albatrosses breed and might have been too late anyway. In the event Michael did see a Waved Albatross while seawatching between islands. I had hoped one day to go on a pelagic off Peru or Chile but the opportunity hasn't arisen. The 2003 film Master and Commander: the Far Side of the World, partly set in the Galapagos, left a lasting impression but I'd always felt it was somewhere I could leave until I was old. Looking in the mirror I realise that I can no longer fool myself that I'm not! I had signed up for a Brazil Ground Cuckoo trip in April but it fell through, ironically to be resurrected in early June when I was in France with Megan. It left me with a bit of a gap and I was looking at options for filling it. I'd made a start on a list of the birds I most wanted to see and Waved Albatross was one of the first on it. Galapagos entered my thinking and for a birdwatching trip the choice seemed to be between Birdquest and Naturetrek. Birdquest's trip was full so after making some perhaps not detailed enough enquires I signed up for a Naturetrek tour. It was a friendly group and I enjoyed it and was glad that I went but waiting a year for a space with Birdquest would probably have been a better option and enabled me to see a more complete bird list. Photos are mine, first sightings of new birds are noted in red.

Sunday 04 May. Megan dropped me at the bus stop in Shoreham at 22:00, the bus was on time and I arrived at Heathrow Terminal 5 at 00:20.

Monday 05 May. LONDON to QUITO. After a few hours with little sleep on an uncomfortable seat I checked in at 04:00 for 06:15 flight to Madrid, a window seat in a comfortable A320. We arrived on time with 2.5 hours before our connection to Quito. Magpie, Kestrel and 3 Swallows seen). Another window seat in an A350 with reasonably forgettable films. We arrived a bit early, were soon through immigration but had a long wait for bags during which I met the other participants (3 couples and an intrepid traveler of similar age to me, she was going on to Easter Island after the cruise). Naturetrek’s Quito guide Esteban was waiting with a minibus and took us into town, some distance and heavy traffic making it seem a long journey. My room in the Hotel Alameda Mercure was on the top (9^th) floor and my first attempt at using the lift wasn’t very successful so I always used the stairs. There was a city tour the following morning which I didn’t fancy and made enquiries about the TeleferiQo (cable car from the edge of Quito to the slopes of Pichincha Volcano. Birds seen: Eared Dove, Blue & White Swallow and Great Thrush.

Tuesday 06 May. QUITO. After a decent breakfast I caught a taxi to the TeleferiQo ($6) arriving soon after 09:30 and expecting it to start at 10 (as per Esteban, hotel reception, online search and when I arrived the sign on the Ticket Office). It didn’t start until 11:00 so I wandered around for an hour and joined a longish queue at about 09:45. Birds noted while waiting were Eared Dove, American Kestrel, Azara’s Spinetail (heard), Great Thrush, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow and Cinereous Conebill. When I finally bought my ticket at 11:20 an over 65s discount was a bonus (as was being asked if I was old enough). I was at the top at 11:40, the 4 seater enclosed gondola taking me from 3,117 m (10,226 ft) to 3,945 m (12,943 ft). I wandered around until 16:30. The weather was clear to start with but clouds slowly came up and visibility was poor for the last hour. Birds were few and far between and although Tawny Antpittas were seemingly calling everywhere it took me almost 2 hours to see one briefly, and another 2 hours for a good view. Also seen were a Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant and 3 Brown-backed Chat-Tyrants. Not a lot but enjoyable and much better for me than being in the city. The return journey was eerily silent as we descended through the clouds until the lower station suddenly appeared. Three taxis were waiting at the bottom, the first in the queue was a minibus which seemed a bit unnecessary but the driver told me I was his first fare that day (my $6 seemed little reward for his day’s work). I still had some food with me and ate in my room.

American Kestrel below the TeleferiQo, my early arrival had some benefits

Eared Doves below the TeleferiQo 

Quito from above the TeleferiQo

Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant

Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant

Great Thrush above the TeleferiQo

Pinchincha from above the TeleferiQo

Tawny Antpitta above the TeleferiQo

Wednesday 07 May. QUITO to BALTRA and SANTA CRUZ. After a decent breakfast we left the hotel for the airport at 08:00, rather early for an 11:10 departure but we had Quito rush hour traffic to contend with and at times were virtually stationary. We made it with plenty of time for our Avianca A320 flight to Baltra where we arrived at 12:20. We collected our bags and were met by our guide for the next two weeks, Darwin Alvarez (an easy name to remember). We caught a local bus a short distance to the ferry terminal, crossed the Canal de Itabaca a short distance to the northern tip of Santa Cruz. There another bus was waiting for us, taking us south through some decent looking habitat (and a brief roadside Paint-billed Crake) to Enchanted Lodge for lunch. Three Small Ground Finches were my first Galapagos endemic but heavy rain prevented walking around after lunch. We continued to Puerto Ayora where the sun was shining and walked to the Charles Darwin Research Centre to see some Giant Tortoises. Also a mummified Lonesome George which was rather sad, 4 Galapagos Mockingbirds and 2 Common Cactus Finches. We walked back into town seeing single Hudsonian Whimbrel and Yellow-crowned Night-Heron and 8 Brown Pelicans. One pelican was fishing by the jetty as we waited for our Panga (Zodiac) to take us to the Chacalote Explorer which was anchored in the bay just outside the harbour. A very efficient transportation, we arrived on board to find our bags in our cabins. I was pleased not to be sharing as it would have been a bit of a squash for two. Having eight on board rather than a maximum compliment of 16 was nice too, especially as the others were all very pleasant, if not along for the birds. We were given a decent buffet style meal and I retired to my cabin to sort myself out before turning in. There was a bit of a swell until we left at midnight, the engine noise not being too bad. Other birds seen during the day were 3 Smooth-billed Anis (a destructive introduction), 10 Brown Noddys, 10 Magnificent Frigatebirds, 40 Western Cattle Egrets (first arrived in Galapagos in 1960s) and 4 Mangrove Warblers. 

Quito from my hotel window

Santa Cruz from Baltra

Small Ground Finch at Enchanted Lodge

Mangrove Warbler at Enchanted Lodge

Marine Iguanas at Puerto Ayora

Galapagos Lava Lizard at Puerto Ayora

Giant Tortoises at the Charles Darwin Research Centre 

Lonesome George

Magnificant Frigatebird at Puerto Ayora

juvenile Yellow-crowned Night Heron at Puerto Ayora

Brown Pelican on the jetty at Puerto Ayora

More Seawatching, some distant Poms and an early Spotted Flycatcher (24 April-04 May)

Thursday 24 April. Widewater 06:05-08:05, light NE, moderate visibility, with RP: Shelduck 2E, Common Scoter 3E, Great Crested Grebe 1 on sea, Oystercatcher 3E, Whimbrel 27E, Curlew 4E, Bar-tailed Godwit 1E, Black-tailed Godwit 2E (with Bar-tailed and 7 Whimbrel), Kittiwake 8E, Mediterranean Gull 1E (second-summer), Sandwich Tern 5E:3W, Arctic Skua 2E (pale morphs @ 07:10 & 07:28), Red-throated Diver 1W, Gannet 33E, Swallow 1 in. Mill Hill with Megan and Otis: Green Woodpecker, Skylark, 2 Swallows, 3 Chiffchaffs, 3 Blackcaps, 4 Whitethroats. Buckingham Park with Otis: 2 Buzzards and 2 Goldcrests.

Friday 25 April. Widewater 06:00-08:00, light NE, clear, with RP: Brent Goose 1E, small duck sp. 1E, Common Scoter 46E, Whimbrel 36E, Bar-tailed Godwit 200E, Sandwich Tern 6E, Red-throated Diver 1E, Fulmar 2W, Gannet 3E, Linnet 2. West Mill/Downslink with Otis: Black Swan with 14 Mutes, 6 Lapwing, Red Kite, 2 Green Woodpeckers (heard), Skylark, 6 Cetti's Warblers (heard), 2 Chiffchaff, Blackcap, a Lesser (heard) and 2 Common Whitethroats, 4 Nightingales (2 seen, 2 heard only), male Whinchat, female Bullfinch, Linnet and 2 Goldfinches. Beeding Brooks: Single Barn and Short-eared Owls (the latter distant perched before vanishing), 5 Swallows, several Cetti,s and Reed Warblers (heard) and 2 Reed Buntings.

female Bullfinch along the Mill Stream

Lapwing near the Downslink

Whinchat near the Mill Stream

Short-eared Owl on Beeding Brooks

Saturday 26 April. Widewater 06:10-14:10, light NE, hazy, initially with RP, I stayed on in the hope that two Poms seen from Hampshire to Climping would go by but I missed them. Shelduck 10E, Teal 4E, Common Scoter 68E, Goosander 3 females W, Oystercatcher 16E:3W, Whimbrel 68E, Bar-tailed Godwit 615E, Dunlin 2E, Kittiwake 17E, Mediterranean Gull heard, Sandwich Tern 38E:3W, Razorbill 1 on sea, Fulmar 1W, Gannet 79E, Little Egret 1E, Hobby 1 in (06:38), Swallow 45 E/in, House Martin 1 in, Wheatear 1-2 females on beach, Linnet 2. Beeding Brooks: Cuckoo (heard), 4 Stock Doves, Short-eared Owl (again distantly perched before vanishing), several Cetti,s and Reed Warblers (heard), Lesser Whitethroat, Yellowhammer and Reed Bunting.

Whimbrel and 2 Oystercatchers passing Widewater

Bar-tailed Godwits a bit further out

Wheatear on a Beach Hut Roof at Widewater

probably the same Wheatear on the beach

Razorbill on the sea off Widewater

Sunday 27 April. Widewater 06:10-10:00, very light NE, hazy, with RP: Brent Goose 13E, Common Scoter 9E, Whimbrel 33E, Bar-tailed Godwit 1E, Kittiwake 7E, Black-headed Gull 79E, Mediterranean Gull 2 adults E, Sandwich Tern 35E, Fulmar 2, Gannet 3, Little Egret 1E, Swallow 10 in, Wheatear 3 females on the beach. Happy Valley with Otis: 5 Swallows, Whitethroat, 5 Linnets and 4 Goldfinches.

Monday 28 April. Widewater 06:10-08:10, very light NE, hazy, with RP. Shelduck 2E, Whimbrel 7E, Common Sandpiper 6 on beach then E, Fulmar 1E, Gannet 1W. Knepp with RP: 4 Cuckoos, 5 Stock Doves, no Turtle Doves, Kingfisher, a pair of Great Crested Grebes, 3 Red Kites, Buzzard, Barn Owl, Great Spotted Woodpecker (heard), Green Woodpecker, Jay, Long-tailed Tit, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, 3 Garden Warblers, a Lesser and 3 Common Whitethroats, 2 Treecreepers, Nuthatch and Nightingale. 

Nightingale at Knepp

Greylag Goose family on Knepp Mill Pond

Tuesday 29 April. Widewater 06:00-09:00, light/moderate NE, moderate visibility, with RP. Shelduck 2E:1W, Shoveler 1 male W then E, Tufted Duck 1 male E, Common Scoter 20E, Oystercatcher 2E, Whimbrel 75E, Bar-tailed Godwit 30E, Sanderling 7E, Black-headed Gull 53E:13W, Sandwich Tern 16E, Fulmar 1E, Gannet 4E, Swallow 2 in. Southwick Hill/Mile Oak with Otis: 2 Red Kites, 2 Buzzards, Kestrel, Cetti's Warbler (heard), Chiffchaff, Blackcap, 4 Lesser and 11+ Common Whitethroats, Chaffinch and 2 Linnets. Widewater 19:00-20:00, moderate SE with RP. Brent Goose 1E, Common Scoter 1E, Whimbrel 8E, Mediterranean Gull 2 second-summers on the sea, Sandwich Tern 7E, Pomarine Skua 14E (very distant pale morphs tracked from Selsey Bill to Birling Gap), Arctic Skua 1E (pale).

Wednesday 30 April. Widewater 06:00-09:40, light/moderate ENE, hazy, with RP. Shelduck 11E, Gadwall 2W, Swift 1E, Oystercatcher 2E:1W, Avocet 2E (07:38), Whimbrel 31E, Curlew (heard), Bar-tailed Godwit 1E+4 probables, Knot 3 probables E, Sanderling 6E, Black-headed Gull 50+E, Sandwich Tern 8E, Common Tern 1W, Mediteranean Gull 10E (5 adults and 5 first-summers), I missed a very distant flock of 5 Pomarine Skuas in the haze, Arctic Skua 1W (pale), diver sp. 2E, Gannet 3E, Wheatear 1 female on the beach. Mill Hill with Megan and Otis: Red Kite, Buzzard, Kestrel, Skylark, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Lesser and 9 Common Whitethroats and a Spotted Flycatcher. The latter was only my third in April (all on 30th) and the first for over 30 years!

Thursday 01 May. Marine Gardens 06:10-with RP, N&CO, light NE & hazy, 06:10-08:40. Shelduck 2E, small duck sp. 2E, Common Scoter 34E, Oystercatcher 10E, Avocet 1E (06:20), Grey Plover 1E, Whimbrel 28E, Bar-tailed Godwit 8E, Sanderling 17E, Black-headed Gull many offshore, Sandwich Tern 24E, Pomarine Skua 3E (2 pale and 1 dark @ 06:46, reasonable close, a pale and the dark with good spoons), Fulmar 1W, Gannet 2E, Swallow 2E.

Friday 02 May. Widewater 06:00-08:40, light NW, poor visibility, with RP. Common Scoter 2E, Oystercatcher 4E:1W, Whimbrel 1W, Curlew 1E, Sanderling 8E, Mediterranean Gull heard, Sandwich Tern 2E, Little Egret 1W. West Mill: Cuckoo, Cetti's Warbler, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Lesser Whitethroat and 2 Nightingales heard. Red Kite, 2 Long-tailed Tits, Reed Warbler (& 2 heard), Whitethroat, 2 Bullfinches and 2 Reed Buntings seen.

Long-tailed Tit at West Mill

Saturday 03 May. Widewater 06:00-08:40, light NW, poor visibility, with RP. Wigeon, Swift 2E, Oystercatcher 11E:3W, Whimbrel 8E, Mediterranean Gull 1 adult W, Sandwich Tern 6E:2W, Fulmar 1W, Gannet 1E, Sand Martin 1E, Swallow 2E, Wheatear 1 female on the beach. Adur with Megan and Otis: 2 Whimbrel, Red Kite, Skylark and 2 Linnets.

Wheatear at Widewater

Whimbrel on the Adur

Sunday 04 May. Widewater 06:15-08:15, light N with RP. Wigeon 2 offshore, Whimbrel 15E, Black-headed Gull 35E, Mediterranean Gull 1 adult E, Sandwich Tern 10E, Gannet 5E, Swallow 3E, Wheatear 1 female on the beach.

the same or another Wheatear at Widewater