This is the third and final post covering
a very enjoyable trip Duncan Brooks, Gary Howard, Barry Wright and I
made to Myanmar. We'd been expertly
guided around Mount Victoria by Ko Thet and driver cum budding bird guide Win and were about to fly to Heho for our last few days where Ko Pan would take over guiding duties. Most of the photos illustrating
this blog are mine although the better ones were taken by Barry who
had organised the trip.
Tuesday 21 January.
We had breakfast at 06:00 and departed at 06:30 for the 15 minute
drive to the airport, not too early to see the first tourist balloon.
Our flight left on time at 07:45 and arrived at Heho half
an hour later. Ko Pan and driver we waiting and we were soon on our
way to the lakeside Hupin Hotel. It was amazingly posh, almost
uncomfortably so, and I was very glad we’d arranged an all in
package with Moe and didn’t know the cost. Our rooms were ready,
chalets on stilts over the lake, so
we dumped our bags and grabbed essentials expecting to be driving
somewhere but it turned out we were going by boat. We headed to the
north of the lake and down a narrow channel, landing on a bank in
beside the reedbed. We saw several Jerdon’s
Bushchats
although they were quite mobile and
a leg section of my lightweight tripod breaking didn’t help, the
third trip running I’d an issue with the tripod. We returned to the
boat and headed for the open lake to check some skittish diving duck.
Fortunately the tripod didn’t need extending and worked perfectly.
Most were Ferruginous
Ducks
of which there were up to 40. From
some distance Ko
Pan, who
had his eye in,
picked out several Baer’s
Pochard
although we only managed to
convince ourselves
of the male which
we saw quite well,
Barry obtaining a decent photo when they flew. It was a bird I’d
not expected to see although I knew a few wintered on the lake.
Encouragingly
Ko
Pan told us he’d seen up to 8 this winter, twice
as many as during the previous winter. We headed halfway down the
east side of the lake to an Asian
Open-billed Stork
colony of several hundred birds, all looking rather grubby, behind
another posh hotel. The storks had been there first but didn’t seem
to have been put off by the hotel’s proximity. We continued to the
bottom of the lake to yet another riverside hotel for lunch and an
obligatory tour of the local sweat shops where local women were
weaving and dyeing cloth. Not my scene and I didn’t pretend to
express any interest. Not before time we headed back up the west side
of the lake successfully checking floating tomato gardens for
Collared Mynas.
We were back at the hotel at 17:15 and after dumping our stuff Duncan
and I walked up to a monastery overlooking the lake. Views
were rather obstructed by the buildings but 10 Ashy
Wood Swallows
roosting on the monastery’s spire just about made it worthwhile.
Back
in our room I managed a temporary fix on my tripod using a biro top
as a wedge to keep the broken leg section in or out.
|
Bluethroat from the Hupin chalet boardwalk |
|
Common Snipe at Hupin |
|
leaving Hupin at 07:00, presumably as soon after dawn as was allowed |
|
male Jerdon's Bushchat at Inle Lake |
|
Vinous-breasted Starling near Heho |
|
Chestnut-tailed Starling near Heho |
|
Collared Myna near Heho |
|
the collar was more obvious than I was expecting |
|
white tip to the tail too |
|
Collared Myna in flight (photo: Barry Wright) |
|
ridge outside Kalaw, sadly no swifts this evening |
|
shiny pagoda in Kalaw |
|
and the businesses around it |
Thursday
23 January.
We
had breakfast at 06:30, by which time it was already light, and left
at 07:00 to be told that Yayayekan
Reservoir, the
area we’d hoped to visit, was
closed for the day due to military training. As a result we started
checking some roadside pines on the edge of town and were soon
watching 3 Black-headed
Greenfinches
catching the rising sun in the top of a nearby conifer. We then drove
for half an hour to the start of a track leading up a wooded valley.
We spent 3.5 hours birding here seeing 2 superb Silver-breasted
Broadbills,
a very endearing pair of Burmese
Yuhinas
and Silver-eared
Mesias.
Otherwise it was a little quiet, the biggest disappointment being a
White-gorgetted
Flycatcher
that wasn’t very responsive and only Gary saw, briefly back-on. We
went back into town for lunch. I wasn’t hungry so skipped it but
unfortunately there were no birding options until we returned to Pine
Hill Resort. There we had two hours of down time and I first wandered
up and down the road seeing little before trying the rather limited
grounds behind
the resort. Highlights there under and amongst the scattered pine
trees were Grey-backed
Shrike,
2 Brown Prinias,
11 Olive-backed
Pipits
and a Scarlet
Rosefinch
although
frustratingly I couldn’t locate a calling Black-headed
Greenfinch.
At 15:00 we drove north out of town walking first along a wooded road
beside a valley and then up a narrow valley between cabbage fields
and scrub. The former produced Silver-eared
Laughingthrush
and Spectacled
Barwings
while a showy male Siberian
Rubythroat
at the latter was superb, only hearing White-bellied
Redstart
and Spotted Bush
Warbler
less so.
|
Black-headed Greenfinch on the edge of Kalaw |
|
Long-tailed Shrike outside Kalaw |
|
Burmese Yuhina (photo: Barry Wright) |
|
farmland near Kalaw |
|
White Wagtail near Kalaw |
Friday
24 January.
Our last day in Myanmar, we were greeted at 07:00 by Ko Pan telling
us the military training had finished and we would be able to visit
the woods around Yayayekan
Reservoir. The
not so good news was that he hadn’t been able to negotiate a late
check-out as arriving guests had booked our two rooms. That meant
returning at 11:30 rather than 13:00 or so as we were flying back to
Yangon at 16:05. We were dropped at the head of a trail a short
distance out of town, all very reminiscent of late 70s/early 80s
trekking in Nepal. We walked down into a valley, the bottom of which
had been converted into paddyfields and where Ko Pan spotted a
Black-tailed Crake
feeding along the far edge. It was my 31st
new bird of the trip but sadly was to prove the last. We entered the
forest soon after but again had no luck with White-gorgetted
Flycatcher which only responded once, distantly, at the first of Ko
Pan’s sites. I’d hoped this trip would be third time lucky with
the species,
having missed them in Northern Thailand and seeing one back-on in NE
India, but it was not to be. The forest was generally quiet although
we added Asian
Emerald Cuckoo,
Grey-headed
Woodpecker
and Slaty-bellied
Tesia.
It would have been nice to see the reservoir but with our deadline
approaching we ran out of time before reaching it. Duncan was keeping
tabs on our progress and estimated we were about 500m short when
we turned back.
As
I was already packed I had 20 minutes in the resort grounds where 7
Olive-backed Pipits
and 2
Scarlet Rosefinches
were
seen and again Black-headed
Greenfinch
only heard. We then left for lunch in a restaurant in town and made
two brief stops on the way back to Heho in the remote hope of seeing
White-bellied Redstart. The first was by a field occupied by workers
digging up ginger and the second a return to the narrow valley where
we’d heard one the previous evening. Neither were successful
although I flushed what I assumed was a Pin-tailed
Snipe
at the latter. It took an hour to drive to Heho where Ko Pan helped
us checked in. Our flight was on time and Moe was at Yangon Airport
to meet us. We returned to the Inyar Lake Hotel with enough daylight,
just, for me to see White-throated
Kingfisher but
not a calling Asian
Koel.
Moe took us out for a meal and we had a good chat with him about how
much we’d enjoyed the trips and his thoughts for the future. He was
a thoroughly nice guy.
|
the route to Yayayekan Reservoir |
|
lunchtime Scarlet Rosefinch |
|
outside Kalaw |
|
ginger harvesting outside Kalaw |
|
leaving Heho, Duncan and Gary boarding our Air KBZ ATR-72 |
Saturday
25 January.
We had breakfast at 06:15 and I managed five minutes around the lake
as it was getting light seeing Purple
Heron
and again hearing Asian
Koel.
We left at 06:45 and were at the airport 15 minutes later. Moe left
us after helping us check in. Our flights to Bangkok and then
Heathrow were on time. We said goodbyes at baggage collection, Barry
and Gary heading for long term parking, Duncan for the central bus
station and me the underground. I arrived at Victoria just under an
hour before my pre-booked train, was at Shoreham-by-Sea at 23:35 and
home just before midnight. Thanks to Moe, Ko Thet and
Ko Pan Myanmar had been very successful and my companions made it a lot of fun.