Tuesday 24 February 2026. Heavy overnight rain prevented any owling but fortunately it stopped before dawn. After an early (05:30) breakfast we headed up a narrow forest trail to a lookout tower where we scanned for an hour or two before being rewarded with a flyby and partly obscured landing of the hoped for Fuertes's Parrot. We birded above and around the lodge until 10:00 seeing amongst others a Black-thighed Puffleg, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Purple-backed Thornbill, Andean Pygmy Owl, Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Tawny and Chestnut-naped Antpitta, Blackish Tapaculo and Red-crested Cotinga. Returning to the lodge we drove down the road, stopping to walk sections at lower elevations. Lunch was brought down by motorbike and we continued dropping down until late afternoon when persistent heavy rain forced a return to the lodge. Highlights were Sickle-winged Guan, Masked Trogon, Andean Motmot, Bronze-winged and Yellow-eared Parrots, Golden-plumed Parakeet, a fairly obliging Ocellated Tapaculo and 2 Masked Saltators. As is often the case hummingbirds were still active at the feeders despite the rain but another wet night sabotaged any chance of owling.
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| Fuertes's Parrot from the observation tower |
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| Red-crested Cotinga in the Loro Fuertesi Reserve |
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| the Loro Fuertesi Reserve hummingbird feeder checklist |
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| Buff-winged Starfrontlet near the Loro Fuertesi Reserve hummingbird feeders |
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Black-thighed Puffleg at the Loro Fuertesi Reserve hummingbird feeders
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Golden-plumed Parakeet below the Loro Fuertesi Reserve
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| Yellow-faced Parrots below the Loro Fuertesi Reserve |
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| Bronze-winged Parrot below the Loro Fuertesi Reserve |
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| Sword-billed Hummingbird at the Loro Fuertesi Reserve |
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| Shining Sunbeam at the Loro Fuertesi Reserve |
Wednesday 25 February 2926. We left the Loro Fuertesi lodge at 04:00 and drove back down off the mountain stopping for a pair of Rufous-banded Owls by the road. Our progress was soon halted by a fallen tree blocking the road. Our drivers knew the local farmers and suggested we started walking down the road while a chainsaw was organised. It was still dark and we took our Rufous-banded Owl total to five. Sadly no White-throated Screech Owls though, we were now probably too low. After 45 minutes, by which time it was starting to get light, we heard vehicles approaching and we continued on our way. After a brief stop for roadside Yellow-headed Brushfinches and Colombian Chachalacas we arrived at El Retorno de los Colibris a few minutes late for breakfast. A superb reserve with feeders attracting a flighty Tolima Blossomcrown and a rather shy Tolima Dove as well as Cauca Guans, White-tipped Sicklebill, Indigo-capped Hummingbirds, Andean Motmots, Grey-throated (Southern Emerald) Toucanet and rather smart Scrub Tanagers. We crossed the central Andes to Otun-Quimbaya where we finished the day seeing a pair of Torrent Ducks on the river and Parker's Antbirds, Red-ruffed Fruitcrows and a Multicoloured Tanager further along the road. We stayed out until after dark and saw a Rufescent Screech-Owl and rather briefly a Mottled Owl. |
| Rufous-banded Owl below the Loro Fuertesi Reserve |
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| Pale-breasted Thrush at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Sparkling Violetear at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Thick-billed Euphonia at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Grey-throated (Southern Emerald) Toucanet at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Indigo-capped Hummingbird at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Cauca Guans at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Palm Tanager at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Scrub Tanager at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Andean Motmot at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Golden Tanager at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Blue-grey Tanager at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| White-tipped Sicklebill at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| collecting pollen on its crown |
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| Indigo-capped Hummingbird at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| Tolima Blossomcrown at Retorno de los Colibris |
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| White-booted Racket-tail during our lunch stop |
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| Tropical Mockingbirds |
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| Southern Rough-winged Swallow during our lunch stop |
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| Cauca Guans at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Sickle-winged Guan at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Red-ruffed Fruitcrow at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Torrent Duck at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Rufescent Screech-Owl at Otun-Quimbaya |
Thursday 26 February 2026. Another pre-dawn start, we drove as far as we could along the Otun-Quimbaya road and after a packed breakfast by which time the gloom in the roadside forest had lifted we concentrated on what was my main target for the trip - Hooded Antpitta. It was a species that was seen near this site on my first visit. I heard it calling from one side of the road but didn't realise it had flown across to the other where it showed briefly before disappearing. Being in a large group hadn't helped but wasn't such an issue this time. We had an excellent leader and a very sharp group but needless to say when one responded to playback I was somewhat tense! Fortunately a Hooded Antpitta was soon located and gave decent if not prolonged views. I even managed some reasonable photos although not up to the quality of the others. We spent all day along the road at Otun-Quimbaya, sheltering in reserve buildings during periods of heavy rain. Other birds seen included Cauca Guan, Tawny-bellied Hermit, Golden-headed Quetzal, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow, Rufous-breasted Flycatcher, Torrent Tyrannulet, White-crowned and Stiles's Tapaculos, White-capped Dipper, White-naped Brushfinch, Black & White and Blackburnian Warblers and Beryl-spangled, Metallic-green and Blue-necked Tanagers. We left Otun-Quimbaya and drove to Manizales for a three night say.
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| Hooded Antpitta at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Hooded Antpitta at Otun-Quimbaya (photo: Paul Chapman) |
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| Red-ruffed Fruitcrow at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Swainson's Thrush at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Corinna Daggerwing at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| female Collared Trogon at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| male Collared Trogon at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| unidentified butterflies at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Southern Lapwing at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Bare-faced Ibis at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Cauca Guan at Otun-Quimbaya |
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| Alder Flycatcher at Otun-Quimbaya |
Friday 27 February 2026. Another pre dawn start as we drove from our hotel in Manizales to Rio Blanco where we were to spend most of the day. We were walking the entrance road before dawn hoping for owls but it was rather quiet, apart from a pair of Lyre-tailed Nightjars, the male displaying and the female sat on what might have been a nest. Initially we appeared to be wandering around the tracks on the reserve somewhat aimlessly although there was a logic to it - fitting in general birding between antpitta feeding sessions. The antpittas stole the show with Chestnut-crowned, Slaty-crowned and Brown-banded Antpitta all performing well. Other notable birds seen included Andean Guan, Rufous-banded Owl, Golden-headed Quetzal, Black-billed Mountain-Toucan, Green & Black Fruiteater, Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher, Streak-headed Antbird, Black-banded Woodcreeper, Pearled Treerunner, Black-collared Jay, Grey-browed and Northern Slaty Brushfinches, Plushcap and Buff-banded and Blue-winged Mountain Tanagers. We finished at a small reservoir near the entrance gate where we saw Green-fronted Lancebill, Chestnut-bellied Chat-Tyrant and White-capped Dipper, leaving for Manizales in the dark. A good selection of class birds today but nothing new, I'd done well here on my previous visit.
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| female Lyre-tailed Nightjar at Rio Blanco |
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| Tourmaline Sunangel, Speckled Hummingbird and Buff-tailed Coronet at Rio Blanco feeders |
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| Bronzy Inca at Rio Blanco |
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| Fawn-breasted Brilliant at Rio Blanco |
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| Long-tailed Sylph at Rio Blanco feeders |
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| Black-capped Hemispingus at Rio Blanco |
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| Black-capped Hemispingus at Rio Blanco |
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| Crimson-mantled Woodpecker at Rio Blanco |
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| Chestnut-crowned Antpitta at Rio Blanco |
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| Manizales from Rio Blanco |
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| Rufous-crowned Tody-Tyrant at Rio Blanco |
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| Slate-crowned Antpitta at Rio Blanco |
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| Slate-crowned Antpitta at Rio Blanco (photo: Paul Chapman) |
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| Grey-browed Brushfinch at Rio Blanco |
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| Red-tailed Squirrel at Rio Blanco |
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| Summer Tanager at Rio Blanco |
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| Rufous-collared Sparrow at Rio Blanco |
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| Brown-banded Antpitta at Rio Blanco |
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| Speckled Hummingbird at Rio Blanco - bill too short to reach through the entrance so going in at the side |
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| Blue and White Swallow at Rio Blanco |
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| Blue-winged Mountain Tanager at Rio Blanco |
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| Andean Guans at Rio Blanco |
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| rather obscured Black-billed Mountain-Toucan at Rio Blanco |
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| Rufous-banded Owl at Rio Blanco |
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| Torrent Tyrannulets at Rio Blanco |
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| White-capped Dipper at Rio Blanco |
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