birding never sleeps: BRAZIL 2026 part 1: Cristalino and Cachimbo (15-20 April)

BRAZIL 2026 part 1: Cristalino and Cachimbo

Introduction. While on an Ornis trip to Southern Argentina in November 2024 I was alerted by our guide Chris Venetz that Ornis were offering a '3 Ground Cuckoo' trip to Amazonian Brazil. I showed Nick Preston who I was with and we decided it was something we fancied doing. It was restricted to four participants (due to using small hides) and we signed up for April/May 2025. There was some uncertainty about the exact dates due to the local guide’s availability so I booked a planned week in France with Megan for early June. Nick thought he was safe booking a June trip to Mongolia but nearer the time the Ground Cuckoo trip slipped to early June too. We had to drop out but were first on the list for 2026 when the tour would be repeated if successful. It was, seeing Rufous-vented Ground Cuckoo at Caxias and Scaled Ground Cuckoo plus Golden-headed Manakin and Black-breasted Gnateater at Novo Progresso. Two Ground Cuckoo trips were put on for the following April but nearer the time it was discovered that the habitat at Novo Progresso had been trashed and the Ground Cuckoos no longer present. That part of the trip switched to Cristalino where a Scaled had been coming to a feeder intermittently. We opted for the second trip, from my point of view it gave me more time to prepare after Colombia and meant I wouldn’t miss Megan’s birthday. We left Heathrow knowing the first trip which had just finished hadn’t seen Scaled Ground Cuckoo so it looked as if the possibility of three Ground Cuckoos when the trip was first proposed and had fallen to two with less back up and might end up with one. Part of me was wishing I’d not signed up …

Unless noted otherwise photos are mine taken with a Sony RX10. New birds for me in red.

Monday 13 April 2026. Afternoon buses to Brighton then Heathrow where I met Nick. Latam flight to Sao Paulo departed 21:20.

Tuesday 14 April 2026. We arrived in Sao Paulo at 05:00, cleared immigration and customs, checked our bags in then a long wait for our connecting flight to Sinop at 14:30. We met Shane Woolbright in the departure lounge. He remembered that we’d shared a room on a Naturetrek Sri Lanka trip in 2019, embarrassingly it was something I’d completely forgotten. His journey to Sao Paulo had been rather more stressful than ours with his flight from USA was delayed enough for him to miss his earlier connection. We joined the other participant (Andreas Lindo from Switzerland) and were met by Eduardo on arrival at Sinop soon after 16:00. We squashed our bags into the back of the 4WD he had hired and it was then a long drive (over 4 hours on a busy road) to the Lisboa Palace Hotel in Alta Floresta. It had been a long journey from Sussex.

Wednesday 15 April 2026. After an early breakfast we left Alta Floresta and drove for an hour to the Teles Pires riverbank opposite the Rio Cristalino. Here we transferred into a motorised canoe for the half hour journey up the Rio Cristalino seeing Anhinga, Swallow-winged Puffbird, Spangled Cotinga, Drab Water Tyrant and White-winged and White-banded Swallows. Once settled in and having seen Black-fronted Nunbird and Santarem Parakeet around the lodge we spent the rest of the morning on a trail behind it - an early trip highlight being 3 Dark-winged Trumpeters. Also White-eyed Stipplethroat, Dot-winged and Long-winged Antwrens and Trilling Gnatwren although I didn’t get onto a Para Greenlet (not the worse bird to miss, but still a bit annoying). After lunch local guide Francisco took us in the canoe a short distance to another trail into the forest from where we headed to a secluded hide he had set up. It wasn’t just any hide and comfortably seated five (one of the reason the tour was limited to four), had camouflage netting with small holes to view through and a quiet fan. Most importantly it overlooked a cleared area where Francisco had been putting out mealworms in the hope of attracting a ‘local’ Scaled Ground Cuckoo. We were somewhat tense as it hadn’t appeared for the earlier tour during the three times they’d tried the previous week but Francisco checked a trail camera overlooking the feeding area, seemed happy and prepared the ground. He’d not been back in the hide long before the Scaled Ground Cuckoo suddenly appeared!! It remained in full view for about 10 minutes before retreating to where it was mostly hidden from my position. Amazing views of an amazing bird - how fortunate were we. Squirrel Cuckoo and White-browed Antbird were also seen from the hide. We continued to another hide overlooking what was known as the ‘Magic Pool’. It was particularly good mid-late afternoon as birds came in to drink in a small pool and some bamboo troughs. Today was no exception with Bare-eyed Antbird, Saturnine and Cinereous Antshrikes and White-shouldered Tanagers appearing. Other birds seen during the day included Striated Heron, Black-throated Mango, Osprey, White-bellied Parrot, Whiskered Miobius, Spot-winged Antshrike, Plain-throated Antwren, Glossy Antshrike, Blackish and Spix’s Warbling Antbirds, Rufous-rumped and Ochre-throated Foliage-gleaners, while Great and Variegated Tinamous were heard. Also seen were White-lipped Peccary and Red Brocket Deer.

Spangled Cotinga on the way to Cristalino

Santarem Parakeet at Cristalino Lodge

Dark-winged Trumpeters on the trail behind Cristalino Lodge

Scaled Ground Cuckoo from the secluded hide at Cristalino

just amazing

White-browed Antbird at Cristalino

Squirrel Cuckoo at Cristalino

White-lipped Peccary at Cristalino

male (above) and female (below) White-shouldered Tanager at the Magic Pond

female Saturnine Antshrike at the Magic Pond

female Cinereous Antshrike at the Magic Pond

female Spot-winged Antshrike at the Magic Pond

male Spot-winged Antshrike at the Magic Pond

Bare-eyed Antbird at the Magic Pool

Thursday 16 April. We had breakfast at 05:15, were ferried across the river and walked through primary forest to the very impressive 50m Canopy Tower named in memory of Ted Parker. From the top it gave superb views of the surrounding forest, appearing unbroken in any direction. Looking back towards the lodge a communications aerial and the Chip Haven Canopy Tower were visible. We spent a couple of hours there seeing Red-throated Piping Guan, Greater Yellow-headed Vulture, Amazonian Pygmy Owl, Curl-crested and Red-necked Aracaris, Waved and Cream-coloured Woodpeckers, Blue & Yellow, Chestnut-fronted and Scarlet Macaws, Dwarf Tyrant Manakin, Pompadour Cotinga, White-browed Purpletuft, Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak and Paradise Tanager. We relocated by boat to Dr Haffer’s Trail seeing a superb Sunbittern on the way. We were dropped at one end of the trail and picked up at the other. A secretive pair of Rufous-capped Nunlets and a Rose-breasted Chat were the highlights but I found birding much harder and missed or only glimpsed several species. We went back down the river to the lodge for lunch, me hoping for a Razor-billed Curassow from the boat (the previous group had been successful along the river) but failing. After lunch we returned to the ‘secluded hide’ and had even better views of the Scaled Ground Cuckoo with the bird present for an hour, although often only partially visible, before disappearing. It was hard to drag ourselves away but the bird was not on view and we had another trail to visit – the Brazil Nut Trail. It gave closer views of Red-throated Piping Guan and Blue-winged Macaw although rather against the light. We returned downriver as the light was going. Still no curassows but spotlighting a Zigzag Heron was superb. Another excellent day during which I also saw Muscovy Duck, Green Ibis, Ladder-tailed Nightjar, Black-eared Fairy, Grey-breasted Sabrewing, Amazonian Motmot, Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers, Blue-necked and Paradise Jacamars, White-necked Puffbird, Black-Girdled Barbet, White-throated Toucan, Golden-winged Parakeet, Blue-headed and White-bellied Parrots, Glossy Antshrike, Band-tailed Antbird, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Black-collared Swallow, Red-billed Pied Tanager and Purple Honeycreeper. We also heard Great and Cinereous Tinamous and saw White-whiskered Spider Monkey, Pink-nosed Bearded Saki and White-lipped Peccary.

noisy Curl-crested Aracari from the Ted Parker Canopy Tower

a more retiring Red-necked Aracari from the Canopy Tower

Waved Woodpecker from the Canopy Tower

Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak from the Canopy Tower

Blue Dacnis from the Canopy Tower

Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher from the Canopy Tower

pity it wasn't all in the shade

Guianan Tyrannulet from the Canopy Tower

Amazonian Pygmy Owl from the Canopy Tower

Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin from the Canopy Tower

views from the top of the Ted Parker Canopy Tower

White-bellied Parrot from the Canopy Tower

Greater Yellow-headed Vulture from the Canopy Tower

Superman or a male Pompadour Cotinga from the Canopy Tower

looking down from the top of the Ted Parker Canopy Tower

White-browed Purpletufts from the Canopy Tower

Pink-nosed Bearded Saki from the trail

Cream-coloured Woodpecker from the trail

Sunbittern by the Cristalino River

Rufous-capped Nunlet on the Dr Haffer's Trail

it was better at hiding than I was at seeking

unidentified bug

Spot-winged Antshrike on Dr Haffer's Trail

Black-collared Swallows at the jetty

the Scaled Ground Cuckoo graced us with it presence again

I'll never think of Squirrel Cuckoos being big again

an Amazonian Motmot provided a brief distraction

Red-throated Piping Guan from the Brazilnut Trail

Blue-winged Macaws on the Brazilnut Trail

Brazilnut Tree

White-whiskered Spider Monkey

Friday 17 April 2026. We went upriver to the Serra Trail and climbed to a viewpoint above the river as the weather closed in and it started to rain. We waited for a while but the rain only became heavier and there seemed little prospect of it improving. We returned to the boat and on our way down Francisco saw yellow and black frog. After some effort searching rotting wood, he caught it using his hand in a plastic bag. A sensible precaution as it was later identified as a Splash-backed Poison Frog. Back at the lodge it was examined in the lab and after it had been photographed and given some recovery time Francisco took it back to the Serra Trail. We’d seen a Rufescent Tiger Heron as we returned to the lodge and I had a quick look at the jetty where the White-winged and White-banded Swallows were fairly approachable. Having almost an hour before lunch headed onto the trails. I soon came to a fork, not recognising it from the previous day. Left or right? I chose left but it was very quiet. I kept going until reaching the Chip Haven Canopy Tower but didn’t have time to climb it before heading back. Unknown to me Nick had turned right as we had done before, something I had forgotten, saw the trumpeters again and picked up a Brazilian Tinamou thanks to his thermal imager. During lunch we saw a Brazilnut Poison Frog one of the staff had found on the lodge's decking, an Azara’s Agouti and some rather wet Red-fan Parrots. After lunch we spent more time on the trails behind the lodge seeing Collared Trogon, Blue-necked Jacamar, Xingu Scale-backed Antbird and Rufous-faced Antbird before returning to the Magic Hide. There much the same cast was present, namely Bare-eyed Antbird and Saturnine and Cinereous Antshrikes, with the addition of a smart Black-spotted Bare-eye. Dinner was interrupted by a group of Feline Night Monkeys in trees by the lodge, impressive although they quickly slipped away. During the day I saw Red-throated Piping Guan, Grey-fronted Dove, Ruddy Pigeon, Pauraque, Ladder-tailed Nightjar, Amazon Kingfisher, Brown-winged Schiffornis, Spot-winged Antshrike, Amazonian Plain Xenops and Ochre-throated Foliage-gleaner. I also heard Great and Variegated Tinamous and saw a South American Coati and Brown Brocket Deer.

Brazilnut Poison Frog at Cristalino

Splash-backed Poison Frog at Cristalino

White-banded Swallow at the jetty

White-winged Swallow at the jetty

Azara's Agouti at Cristalino Lodge

female Collared Trogon at Cristalino

Blue-necked Jacamar at Cristalino

Probiscus Bat at Cristalino

Amazonian Brown Brocket Deer at Cristalino

Bare-eyed Antbird at the Magic Pond

male Spot-winged Antshrike at the Magic Pond

male Cinereous Antshrike at the Magic Pond

female Cinereous Antshrike at the Magic Pond

Ochre-throated Foliage-gleaner at Cristalino

Saturday 18 April 2026. After an early breakfast we walked to the Chip Haven Canopy Tower where we climbed 50m to the upper platform and spent a couple of hours there. More spectacular views and some close Scarlet Macaws as well as Amazonian Elaenia and Tooth-billed Wren were the highlights. On the platform or along the trail to it I also saw Red-throated Piping Guan, Pale-rumped Swift, Black-bellied Thorntail, Crowned Woodnymph, Versicoloured Emerald, King Vulture, White-throated Toucan, Black-necked Aracari, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, a very distant Bare-necked Fruitcrow, Spangled Cotinga, Plain-throated Antwren, Cinereous Antshrike, Buff-throated and Spix’s Woodcreepers, Rufous-bellied Euphonia and Bay-headed Tanager. We were back at the lodge at 10:00 and left by canoe at 10:30. Our time at Cristalino was over, it had been brilliant but all too brief with, for me at least, some important birds left behind - not that I could have afforded to stay much longer! We transferred into our 4WD and it was then, with a stop for lunch, a seven hour drive to the campina transition zone at Serra do Cachimbo. We arrived just before dusk and birded along a dirt road in the last dregs of light seeing little other than a large flock (100+) of Yellow-rumped Caciques flying to roost. We continued to the Hotel Gold Palace in the dark.

Scarlet Macaws from the Chip Haven Canopy Tower

Black-necked Aracari from the Chip Haven Canopy Tower

Tooth-billed Wren from the Chip Haven Canopy Tower

White-throated Toucan from the Chip Haven Canopy Tower

the Ted Parker Canopy Tower from Chip Haven

canopy views from Chip Haven

morning mist rising from the river

looking down from the top of the Chip Haven Canopy tower

eye level Scarlet Macaws

Rufous-bellied Euphonia from the Chip Haven Canopy Tower

Versicoloured Emerald from Chip Haven

King Vultures from the Chip Haven Canopy Tower

White-whiskered Spider Monkeys from the Chip Haven Canopy Tower

Collared Trogon at Cristalino

Buff-throated Woodcreeper at Cristalino

dragonfly

Sunday 19 April 2026. We were up at 05:20 and after breakfast drove to what became a forest track at Serra do Cachimbo, turning off onto it just past the waterfall. We birded along the track 06:30-11:00 by which time it was hot and activity had died. We returned to the town for a pay by weight buffet lunch then back to the same area from 15:15-17:15. It was an interesting area, birds seen during our visits included a fly-over Muscovy Duck, Rusty-margined Guan, Guira Cuckoo, Short-tailed Swift, White-necked Jacobin, Black-eared Fairy, Greater Yellow-headed Vulture, White-tailed Hawk, Amazonian Trogon, Swallow-winged Puffbird, White-fronted Nunbird, Channel-billed Toucan, Bat Falcon, flight views of 2 Bald Parrots, Blue-headed Parrot, Orange-winged Amazon, Santarem Parakeet, Blue & Yellow Macaw, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Spangled, male and female Pompadour and a superb male Purple-breasted Cotinga, White-browed Purpletuft, Crested Becard, Zimmer’s Tody-Tyrant, Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant, White-lored Tyrannulet, Pygmy Antwren, Natterer’s Slaty Antshrike, Plain-brown and Dusky-capped Woodcreepers, Plush-crested Jay, Purple-throated Euphonia, Swallow Tanager, Short-billed and Green Honeyeaters and Yellow-backed, Flame-crested, Red-shouldered, Opal-rumped, Bay-headed, Dotted, Masked and Blue-necked Tanagers but only heard Eastern Striolated Puffbird.

Purple-throated Fruitcrow at Serra do Cachimbo

Purple-breasted Cotinga at Serra do Cachimbo

Plush-crested Jay at Serra do Cachimbo

Southern Lapwing outside our hotel at lunchtime

White-browed Purpletuft Serra do Cachimbo

Dotted Tanager at Serra do Cachimbo

White-fronted Nunbird at Serra do Cachimbo

male Pompadour Cotinga at Serra do Cachimbo

Monday 20 April 2026. We returned to the track at Serra Cachimbo and birded from 06:20-09:20 but it was much quieter. I missed another Bald Parrot flyover and only saw silhouettes when a flock of Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlets did the same although a flock of Kawall’s Amazons did land briefly. I saw Pompadour Cotinga and Dotted Tanager again as well as Black-necked Aracari, Bar-breasted Piculet, Golden-winged Parakeet, Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin, Black-tailed Tityra, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, Buff-throated Saltator and Red-necked and Blue-naped Tanagers. We continued to the campina transition zone where we had stopped a couple of days earlier and took the sandy track further into scrubby forest where we found Caatinga Antwren (an isolated population). We were expecting to see Spotted Puffbird but only heard one unresponsive individual. While searching for it we were summarily thrown out of the area, in a friendly way, by a passing armed motorcyclist who’d spotted our footprints. It was then another long drive to Sinop to overnight at Pousada Real ahead of our morning flight to Caxias, unfortunately via Sao Paulo.