Thursday, 29 April 1982

30 years ago: 29 April 1982, Everest Trek day 10, Gokyo to Namche Bazar

Thursday 29th April 1982:  Gokyo Peak and return to Namche Bazar (12 miles)
I had a terrible night, cold and very uncomfortable, and was up just before 06:00.  After a quick couple of cups of tea I set off on the climb up Gokyo Peak (c5300m/17,600 ft).  I arrived at its summit by 07:45, quite a slog but well worth it for amazing views to the east with three 8000m peaks in same field of view.  Perhaps Gokyo Peak has a better eastern vista than that from Kala Pattar, although Kala Pattar seemed better for all round views?  I spent an hour happily clicking away with my camera but on balance felt Kala Pattar had the edge although perhaps by now impressive mountain views are losing their ‘jaw dropping’ value - though hardly familiarity breeding contempt!  I returned back over scree slopes, somewhat dangerously, hoping for Snow Partridge, but without success.  It was very poor for birds and I was back at the lodge by 10:00.  After some excellent porridge I packed and left Gokyo at 11:00.  I walked quite quickly to Dulay, in driving hail and sleet from Pangka.  I stopped in Dulay from 14:00-14:30 for tea and biscuits and when the snow stopped decided to continue on to Namche Bazar.  I eventually arrived at the Sherpa Hotel, where I got the last bed, just after 18:00 - a long days walk.  I saw my first new bird for a week (Large-billed Leaf Warbler), several more Blood and Impeyan Pheasants and two Alpine Accentors at 18,000 feet.  I had an excellent Sherpa stew (only 2 rupees) for supper and was much too hot in the night!

Birds seen:  Lammergeyer 1, Steppe Eagle 1, Sparrowhawk 1, Kestrel 1, Merlin 1, Ruddy Shelduck 2, Blood Pheasant 4 males and a female, Impeyan Pheasant 6 males and 2 females, Snow Pigeon 10, Rufous Turtle Dove 6, Olive-backed Pipit 1, Rosy Pipit 5, Black-backed Wagtail 1, Brown Dipper 2, Alpine Accentor 2 at 18,000 ft, Red-flanked Bluetail 1, Blue-fronted Redstart 35, River Chat 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 3, Rufous-capped Bush Warbler 1, *Large-billed Leaf Warbler 1, Lemon-rumped Warbler 2, Tickell’s Warbler 1, Black-faced Laughingthrush 1, White-browed Fulvetta 1, Grey-crested Tit 2, Black-crested Tit 5, Alpine Chough 100, Chough 50, Large-billed Crow 4, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 75, White-browed Rosefinch 2, White-winged Grosbeak 1.

Tawche and Gokyo Lake from Gokyo Peak

looking north from Gokyo Peak

looking SSE from Gokyo Peak

me at Gokyo Peak, note appropriate clothing for this altitude!

Everest from Gokyo Peak


looking north-east from Gokyo Peak, Changtse centre, Everest to the right

me at Gokyo Peak, Everest and Lhotse behind

looking east from Gokyo Peak with Everest, Lhotse and more distantly Makalu all 8000m peaks

leaving Gokyo Peak


Ruddy Shelduck on Gokyo Lake


Ruddy Shelduck by Gokyo Lake


trail between Gokyo and Dulay

Brown Dipper above Dulay


view across to Thyangboche from Trashiunga


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