CYPRUS 2024: part 1 (13-16 March)

Megan and I wanted to go away somewhere in early spring and eventually settled on Cyprus. We'd been with the Nessa and Josh for a week in April 2000 but I didn't see Cyprus Scops Owl (it wasn't regarded as a full species then). Although by no means guaranteed the possibility of a new bird as well as some early migration provided the incentive for me to return. Our previous visit had been based in Pafos and Megan was keen to see more of the country with the ancient ruins, museums and churches being her main draw as well as some warmer weather. I booked EasyJet flights to Pafos, a hire car and self-catering accommodation in Lemesos, Larnaka, Lefkosa (2 nights), Kakopetria (near Troodos) and Pafos (2 nights). 

Wednesday 13 March. An early check-in at Gatwick, our flight to Pafos was on time and we were soon driving to Lemesos, arriving at our seafront apartment late afternoon. Hooded Crows were the most obvious species and we also saw Hoopoe and Yellow-legged Gull. From our inland looking balcony we could see Common Swifts, Swallows and House Martins flying over the town.

Greece from 30,000 feet

Thursday 14 March. After visiting Lemesos Fort and Museum we departed for Ancient Amethus. The nice thing about these historic ruins from my point of view is that they are outside and provide birding opportunities. Amongst the ruins we saw 3 Crested Larks, a male Ruppell's, male and female Cyprus and 2 male Sardinian Warblers, a pair of Blue Rock Thrushes, Isabelline and a male Eastern Black-eared Wheatear, 3 Spanish Sparrows and 3 Red-throated Pipits. After checking into out apartment on Larnaka seafront we had time for a brief visit to Larnaka Salt Lake although 5 Spur-winged Plover were the only birds of note (some very distant gulls very probably Slender-billed).

Lemesos skyline

Megan at Lemesos Fort

Spanish Sparrow at ancient Amethus

female Blue Rock Thrush at Ancient Amethus

Isabelline Wheatear at Ancient Amethus

Agios Lazaros, Larnaka

Friday 15 March. After a walk along the seafront we checked out, returned to our car parked 10 minutes walk away (saved hassle and expense of parking any closer) and drove back to the Salt Lake and visited the Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque. Birds seen at Larnaka Salt Lake included 13 Black-winged Stilts, 3 Spur-winged Plover, 22 Ruff and male Spectacled and Sardinian Warblers. Some very distant gulls were most likely Slender-billed but others appeared to have black heads, all were too far away to be sure. Early afternoon we left Larnaka and drove to Lefkosa. Arriving during rush hour we were pleased to be staying in the SE of the city. We walked about a km into the Walled City and before we knew it were confronted by the UN Buffer Zone that has been in place for almost 50 years.

Larnaka seafront from our apartment, scarily large cruise ship offshore

Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque on the edge of Larnaka Salt Lake

Black-winged Stilts on the Salt Lake

Saturday 16 March. We walked a couple of kms to the Cyprus Museum, crossed the Buffer Zone into Northern Cyprus at Ledra Street and wandered around for an hour or two. Unfortunately the Selimiye Mosque was being extensively renovated and not only closed but hidden behind tall hoardings. Megan bought a cushion cover and we returned from the dark side, although it seemed more vibrant there. Late afternoon we walked to Alsos Forest, the nearest green on the map, a km or so SE of where we were staying. Much of it was fairly open with scattered pine trees but between showers and in fading light we saw Eastern Bonelli's Warbler, Chiffchaff, 2 Blackcaps and a Lesser Whitethroat.

approaching the Buffer Zone

street art on the Buffer Zone