30 years ago: 31 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 28, Naudanda to Pokhara

Wednesday 31st March 1982:  Naudanda to Pokhara (11 miles)
The trek was taking its toll as Colin was not feeling too good today.  We persuaded him it was sensible to continue on to Pokhara being relatively close and mostly downhill - in the back of my mind was the concern that if we left it a day in the hope he'd be better then Dave or I might not be.  We left Naudanda at 08:25 and reached Pokhara by 13:00 and the Gupta Lodge & Restaurant by 13:20.  It was a harder walk than we'd anticipated although the poor habitat along the way came as no surprise.  We’d walked approximately 220 miles in 4 weeks and I'd seen about 240 species including some stunning redstarts and rosefinches, Stoliczka's Tit-Warbler, Wallcreeper and the incomparable Grandala.  I had my first hot shower since Malaysia!

Birds recorded:  Cattle Egret 10, Black Kite 2, Egyptian Vulture 2, Asian White-backed Vulture 1, Long-billed Vulture 1, Griffon Vulture 5, Kestrel 1, Barred Cuckoo Dove 1, Common Hawk Cuckoo h, Barred Owlet 2, Great Barbet 2, Brown-throated Sand Martin 5, Swallow 30, Red-rumped Swallow 2, Paddyfield Pipit 1, White Wagtail 5, Red-vented Bulbul 5, Brown Dipper 1, Plumbeous Redstart 3, Stonechat 1, Pied Stonechat 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 3, Lemon-rumped Warbler 5, Black-lored Tit 2, Maroon Oriole 2, Black Drongo 2, Large-billed Crow 10, Chestnut-tailed Starling 40, Common Myna 30, Jungle Myna 30.

back to civilisation after 4 weeks trekking, there were times I would have welcomed one of these carrying my bag!

I'm sure our diets would have welcomed some oranges on the trek too

fortunately my shoes seemed to be holding out and not in need of a roadside repair

my clothes were lasting too

back where we'd started four weeks earlier, Fishtail hidden in the afternoon haze

30 years ago: 30 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 27, Ghoropani to Naudanda

Tuesday 30th March 1982:  Ghoropani to Naudanda (16 miles)

We left Ghoropani by 07:30 and I felt OK having eaten two Star Bars for breakfast.  We walked reasonably quickly to Naudanda (4800 ft) and I even took the 1500 ft climb up from Birethanti in my stride.  Seeing two new birds on the way, both summer visitors, added to my sense of wellbeing.  We arrived at the Unity Lodge at 18:25 just before it got dark.  My feet felt that I’d walked the distance and were also damp as it was raining from Chandrakot onwards.  Dinner included excellent apple museli and curd.

Birds recorded:  Egyptian Vulture 2, Hen Harrier 1, Black Francolin h, Common Hawk Cuckoo h, Cuckoo h, Collared Pigmy Owl h, White-breasted Kingfisher 1, Common Kingfisher 1, Great Barbet 2, Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker 1, Upland Pipit 2, Olive-backed Pipit 1, Rosy Pipit 1, Grey Wagtail 1, Large Pied Wagtail 1, Long-tailed Minivet 4, Mountain Minivet 1, Black Bulbul 15, Brown Dipper 3, Wren 1, Blue-fronted Redstart 6, Plumbeous Redstart 20, Grey Bushchat 4, River Chat 4, Little Forktail 5, *Blue-headed Rock Thrush 1 male, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 10, Grey-hooded Warbler 10, Black-faced Warbler 2, Blyth’s Crowned Leaf Warbler 2, Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler 15, Lemon-rumped Warbler 40, Verditer Flycatcher 6, *Ultramarine Flycatcher 2 (male and female), Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher 1, Grey-headed Flycatcher 4, Yellow-bellied Fantail 4, White-throated Laughingthrush 6, White-crested Laughingthrush 5, Streaked Laughingthrush 4, White-browed Shrike Babbler 1, Chestnut-tailed Minla 3, Rufous-winged Fulvetta 10, Whiskered Yuhina 2, Stripe-throated Yuhina 20, Rufous-vented Yuhina 10, Green-backed Tit 6, Black-lored Tit 1, White-tailed Nuthatch 4, Green-tailed Sunbird 5, Black Drongo 5, Hair-crested Drongo 1, Large-billed Crow 20, Common Myna 30, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch 40, Scarlet Rosefinch 1, Pink-browed Rosefinch 1 female, Red-headed Bullfinch 2.

the picturesque village of Birethanti

Blue Whistling Thrush at Birethanti, a common riverside bird often understandably mistaken for Blackbirds by European trekkers

Plumbeous Redstart at Birethanti, another common bird that most trekkers notice

Large Pied Wagtail by the river at Birethanti

male Blue-headed Rock Thrush near Birethanti, a summer visitor to the Himalayas and a most welcome new bird for me

30 years ago: 29 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 26, Ghoropani

Monday 29th March 1982:  Ghoropani (6 miles)

I didn’t sleep well but woke feeling much better, almost back to normal in fact.  I climbed up Poon Hill (10,500 ft) but it was cloudy. I then went down to the river on the other side and into the woods where I saw a fair few birds.  I returned at lunch time and spent the afternoon on the clearing ‘trail’ in the afternoon where I saw 6 Juniper Finches.  Very spring like today. The fragrance of the Daphnes in the forest is one of the nicest I’ve known and I find myself constantly sniffing them!  Dave was ill again today having seemed OK yesterday.  James Wolstencroft was in the lodge when I got back. Excellent to chat at length. 

Birds seen:  Lammergeyer 1, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 4, Hen Harrier 1, Upland Buzzard 1 (same), Black Eagle 1, Collared Pigmy Owl 1, Scaly-bellied Woodpecker 2, Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker 3, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker 1, Olive-backed Pipit 6, Long-tailed Minivet 4, Black Bulbul 8, Rufous-breasted Accentor 1, Red-flanked Bluetail 6, Blue-headed Redstart 1, Blue-fronted Redstart 12, Plumbeous Redstart 2, River Chat 1, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush 6, White-collared Blackbird 10, Red-throated Thrush 2, Mistle Thrush 6, Blyth’s Crowned Leaf Warbler 1, Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler 20, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler 6, Lemon-rumped Warbler 20, Hume’s Leaf Warbler 6, Goldcrest 1, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher 6, Yellow-bellied Fantail 12, White-throated Laughingthrush 10, Spotted Laughingthrush 4, Black-faced Laughingthrush 6, Green Shrike Babbler 4, Hoary Barwing 6, Chestnut-tailed Minla 2, Rufous-winged Fulvetta 10, Black-capped Sibia 15, Stripe-throated Yuhina 40, Rufous-vented Yuhina 20, White-browed Fulvetta 20, Yellow-browed Tit 1, Grey-crested Tit 15, Black-crested Tit 15, Coal Tit 1, White-tailed Nuthatch 6, Stoliczka’s Treecreeper 1, Green-tailed Sunbird 10, Fire-tailed Sunbird 15, Nutcracker 1, Large-billed Crow 15, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 100, Dark-breasted Rosefinch 20, Beautiful Rosefinch 4, Spot-winged Rosefinch 3, Red-browed Finch 5, Juniper Finch 2 males and 4 females.

Ghoropani looking north-west

Ghoropani looking north-east towards Annapurna

Ghoropani looking west to Dhulagiri

Scaly-bellied Woodpecker at Ghoropani



primula-type at Ghoropani

Rhodedendrons and Daphne

Daphne at Ghoropani



30 years ago: 28 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 25, Ghoropani

Sunday 28th March 1982:  Ghoropani (3 miles)

I awoke with a rumbling stomach after a bad night’s sleep.  I ate a little for breakfast and had no bad reaction to it.  I wandered around the clearing still feeling weak.  It was good for raptors including an Upland Buzzard - my second new bird in 2 days.  I returned to the lodge at 14:00 and spent the rest of the day slowly eating to build up my strength.  I had to get up to visit the toilet at midnight for third night running.  I wish now that I'd brought a torch as trying to navigate one's way to the lodge door and then unlock it by candle light is not easy.

Birds seen:  Lammergeyer 1, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 10, Red-headed Vulture 1, Black Vulture 1, Hen Harrier 1, *Upland Buzzard 1, Mountain Hawk Eagle 1, Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker 1, Olive-backed Pipit 1, Black Bulbul 4, Red-flanked Bluetail 2, Blue-fronted Redstart 2, Grey Bushchat 1, White’s Thrush 1, White-collared Blackbird 1, Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler 3, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler 2, Hume’s Leaf Warbler 1, Verditer Flycatcher 2, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher 2, Yellow-bellied Fantail 2, White-throated Laughingthrush 4, Spotted Laughingthrush 3, Chestnut-tailed Minla 2, Rufous-winged Fulvetta 10, Black-capped Sibia 6, Stripe-throated Yuhina 4, Rufous-vented Yuhina 3, White-browed Fulvetta 3, Yellow-browed Tit 4, Grey-crested Tit 4, Black-crested Tit 5, White-tailed Nuthatch 1, Fire-tailed Sunbird 5, Black Drongo 1, Large-billed Crow 15, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 60, Dark-breasted Rosefinch 4, Scarlet Rosefinch 4, Beautiful Rosefinch 2, Spot-winged Rosefinch 1, Red-browed Finch 5.

Rhododendrons starting to come out at Ghoropani



30 years ago: 27 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 24, Ghoropani

Saturday 27th March 1982:  Ghoropani (2 miles)

My stomach felt better and I didn’t have an adverse reaction to porridge and pancakes at breakfast but I was still feeling weak.  I went into the field, but was very lethargic and didn't venture far although I did manage to find 4 Juniper Finches not far from the edge of the main clearing and take a few photos.  Dave was bad today and didn’t go out.

Birds recorded:  Lammergeyer 1, Mountain Hawk Eagle 2, Jungle Nightjar h, Scaly-bellied Woodpecker 2, Olive-backed Pipit 1, Red-flanked Bluetail 2, Grey Bushchat 1, White-collared Blackbird 40, Black-throated Thrush 2, Mistle Thrush 1, Golden Spectacled Warbler 1, Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler 1, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler 1, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher 2, White-throated Laughingthrush 4, Spotted Laughingthrush 1, Black-faced Laughingthrush 3, Hoary Barwing 2, Rufous-winged Fulvetta 6, Black-capped Sibia 2, Stripe-throated Yuhina 4, Rufous-vented Yuhina 5, White-browed Fulvetta 8, Yellow-browed Tit 2, Grey-crested Tit 5, Black-crested Tit 4, Stoliczka’s Treecreeper 2, Green-tailed Sunbird 6, Fire-tailed Sunbird 5, Large-billed Crow 5, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 60, Dark-breasted Rosefinch 1, Beautiful Rosefinch 1 female, Red-browed Finch 6, *Juniper Finch 1 immature male and 3 females.

the clearing at Ghoropani, twice the size it was in 1979. The downside of tourism and a good reason not to use hot water for washing while trekking, actually given the temperature a good reason to reduce washing to an absolute minimum! 

female Beautiful Rosefinch at Ghoropani, nice but not even the male really lives up to its name

Red-browed Finch at Ghoropani

Spotted Laughingthrush at Ghoropani, one of the more impressive members of a highly regarded family

30 years ago: 26 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 23, Ghoropani

Friday 26th March 1982:  Ghoropani

I woke with a stomach ache that didn’t improve after food.  I was feeeling very weak so stayed in the lodge.  I felt better after just sitting around all day although soup and fried potatoes was a bad move at supper.  I lay down soon after and threw it all up over everything - total stomach contents in 0.5 seconds.  Colin was brilliant in cleaning up after me.  I woke later to visit the toilet but slept pretty well after, although it was cold initially.

Birds seen:  Himalayan Griffon Vulture 2, Alpine Accentor 1 (same as on 7th), Large-billed Crow 2.

Alpine Accentor at Ghoropani, it seemed to have hardly moved since our earlier visit

30 years ago: 25 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 22, Tatopani to Ghoropani

Thursday 25th March 1982: Tatopani to Ghoropani (10 miles)

A bad nights slee, during which I was almost sick.  It was a real effort to get moving after breakfast.  We left at 09:10 and I got to the top of the first ridge before Ghare (5800 ft) by 10:30 with no stops but still 10 minutes behind Colin and Dave.  I deteriorated rapidly after that and when I got to Sikha (6600 ft) at 13:45 they had been there an hour.  I suggested to Colin and Dave that they go on ahead as I only expected to make Chitre (7700 ft) that evening and so they continued. I had a place in mind to stay at in Chitre that I thought I'd noticed on our way through earlier in the trek but in the event I walked right through the town without seeing it or another lodge that took my fancy - I must have confused Chitre with another village. I continued on up though the forest and made it to Poon Hill Lodge, Ghoropani (9300 ft) by 17:30, much to my, and Colin and Dave’s, surprise. My total food for the day was four small packets of biscuits and two pancakes.  I didn’t eat that evening but slept quite well.

Birds recorded: Black Kite 1, Great Barbet h, White-cheeked Bulbul 3, Blue-fronted Redstart 4, Plumbeous Redstart 1, Grey Bushchat 15, Blue Whistling Thrush 4, Grey-hooded Warbler 5, Lemon-rumped Warbler 5, Verditer Flycatcher 2, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher 4, White-crested Laughingthrush 8, Grey-crested Tit 1, White-tailed Nuthatch 2, Gold-billed Blue Magpie 1, Large-billed Crow 5, Common Myna 10, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 300.

30 years ago: 24 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 21, Ghasa to Tatopani

Wednesday 24th March 1982: Ghasa to Tatopani (8 miles) Jomson Trek, Nepal Woke up with a bad stomach ache from previous evening and was violently sick. Not feeling any better after oat porridgefor breakfast but decided to press on,with some reservations, as an easy half day's walk down the valley to Tatopani.  To make maters worse it was raining and I felt quite miserable.  I got to Tatopani (4000 ft) after four sections of one hour walking with up to 30 minutes rest periods between.  I felt better on arrival but a owl of porridge was unappealing after the first few spoonfuls.  I lay down from 16:00 to dinner at 18:45 with periods of feeling OK and pretty bad.  Not surprisingly few birds were seen and none photographed.

Birds seen: Himalayan Griffon Vulture 5, Grey Wagtail 4, White-cheeked Bulbul 5, Plumbeous Redstart 1, Grey Bushchat 10, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush 1, Blue Whistling Thrush 5, Golden-spectacled Warbler 1, Grey-hooded Warbler 4, Verditer Flycatcher 1, Streaked Laughingthrush 5, Green-backed Tit 4, Common Myna 4, Rock Bunting 1.

30 years ago: 23 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 20, Ghasa

Tuesday 23rd March 1982:  Ghasa and surrounding area (8 miles)

We were up at 05:50 trying for Cheer Pheasant on the grassy slopes opposite Ghasa, but had no success.  It was rather treacherous as the grass was wet.  I spent the rest of day birding leisurely at low altitude (having had enough of climbing the nearby hills).  A flock of 4 Pink-browed Rosefinches were very welcome new birds on an otherwise rather quiet day.

Birds seen:  Lammergeyer 1, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 10, Black Vulture 1, Hen Harrier 1, Kestrel 2, Rock Dove 15, Rufous Turtle Dove 2, Little Green Bee-eater 2, Grey Wagtail 4, Long-tailed Minivet 10, White-cheeked Bulbul 6, Rufous-breasted Accentor 2, Himalayan Accentor 14, Red-flanked Bluetail 1, Blue-headed Redstart 1, Hodgson’s Redstart 1, Grey Bushchat 15, Blue Whistling Thrush 6, Red-throated Thrush 4, Striated Prinia 1, Golden-spectacled Warbler 2, Grey-hooded Warbler 10, Blyth’s Crowned Leaf Warbler 2, Lemon-rumped Warbler 20, Verditer Flycatcher 2, Grey-headed Flycatcher 6, Yellow-bellied Fantail 5, Streaked Laughingthrush 4, Red-headed Laughingthrush 2, Black-capped Sibia 6, Whiskered Yuhina 15, Red-headed Tit 4, Black-crested Tit 6, Green-backed Tit 15, Fire-tailed Sunbird 6, Oriental White-eye 2, Nutcracker 2, Chough 100, Large-billed Crow 2, Dark-breasted Rosefinch 1, Beautiful Rosefinch 6 *Pink-browed Rosefinch 4 (2 males), Spot-winged Rosefinch 3, Rock Bunting 2.

very poor shot of Yellow-bellied Fantail

30 years ago: 22 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 19, Ghasa

Monday 22nd March 1982:  Ghasa and second hill opposite (7 miles)

I climbed up the second hill, starting at 08:00, and following my instincts by turning right at the S end of the village and going around the fields.  Through secondary forest then more fields before dropping down to cross a ravine separating the hills.  I then found a good trail to the base of a cliff then pushed up through bamboo to rhododendron forest and a clearing seeing many Koklas Pheasants in the process.  I continued up into snow and then across to an area of dead trees hoping for Impeyan Pheasant but no luck.  There was a hail and thunder storm while I was in the area of dead trees which made me feel a bit exposed and at 14:00 I decided to return.  I worked my way lower, re-entered the rhododendrons below the snow line and found my way to the clearing.  I then found a trail down through the trees on the northern side, crossing the ravine higher up.  I slowly contoured down the open hillside (the south face of the first hill) and back along the usual trail returning to the lodge at 16:45.  A satisfying day with lots of birds seen despite no Impeyans.  Corn bread infinitely better than chapatis!

Birds recorded:  Lammergeyer 1, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 6, Golden Eagle 1, Koklas Pheasant 13, Spotted Dove 2, Collared Pigmy Owl h, Scaly-bellied Green Woodpecker 1, Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker 3, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker 1, Olive-backed Pipit 15, Grey Wagtail 1, Long-tailed Minivet 10, White-cheeked Bulbul 1, Black Bulbul 10, Maroon-backed Accentor 2, Rufous-breasted Accentor 10, Blue-headed Redstart 4, Blue-fronted Redstart 4, White-throated Redstart 2, Grey Bushchat 15, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 3, Plain-backed Mountain Thrush 1, White’s Thrush 1, White-collared Blackbird 2, Grey-winged Blackbird 2, Grey-hooded Warbler 8, Blyth’s Crowned Leaf Warbler 2, Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler 1, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler 1, Hume’s Leaf Warbler 1, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher 3, Grey-headed Flycatcher 10, Yellow-bellied Fantail 1, Streaked Laughingthrush 1, Variegated Laughingthrush 15, Black-faced Laughingthrush 4, Red-headed Laughingthrush 2, Green Shrike Babbler 2, Black-capped Sibia 10, Stripe-throated Yuhina 4, White-browed Fulvetta 1, Grey-crested Tit 3, Black-crested Tit 6, Green-backed Tit 5, White-tailed Nuthatch 8, Stoliczka’s Treecreeper 1, Green-tailed Sunbird 4, Fire-tailed Sunbird 10, Oriental White-eye 3, Long-tailed Shrike 1, Gold-billed Blue Magpie 3, Large-billed Crow 4, Russet Sparrow 3, Dark-breasted Rosefinch 1, Beautiful Rosefinch 15, Red-headed Bullfinch 4, Rock Bunting 2.

descending to Ghasa in poor weather

30 years ago: 21 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 18, Ghasa

Sunday 21st March 1982:  Ghasa and hill opposite (7 miles), Jomson Trek, Nepal

Ponies on the move woke me before dawn.  I spent whole day high on first hillside opposite Ghasa looking for Impeyan Pheasant, but the only large pheasant seen was a Koklas (flying away calling).  Climbed up solidly for three hours then returned slowly.  Hot and sunny until 16:00 when it started to rain.  Returned to lodge at 17:45 after 10 hours in the field to find Richard Scofield there.  Good to chat to him.  Over ate on Tibetan bread and daal bhat.

Birds recorded:  White-backed Vulture 1, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 10, Hen Harrier 1, Goshawk 1, Golden Eagle 1, Kestrel 1, Koklas Pheasant 1, Kalij Pheasant 4, Rock Dove 1, Ashy Wood Pigeon 2, Collared Pigmy Owl h, *Upland Pipit 3, Grey Wagtail 2, Long-tailed Minivet 5, Black Bulbul 5, Himalayan Accentor 20, Red-flanked Bluetail 1, White-throated Redstart 1, Grey Bushchat 6, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 1, Grey-winged Blackbird 13, Red-throated Thrush 5, Black-throated Thrush 1, Grey-hooded Warbler 4, Blyth’s Crowned Leaf Warbler 1, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler 1, Lemon-rumped Warbler 1, Hume’s Leaf Warbler 1, Grey-headed Flycatcher 2, Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler 2, Streaked Laughingthrush 2, Variegated Laughingthrush 15, Black-faced Laughingthrush 2, Red-headed Laughingthrush 2, Black-capped Sibia 3, Whiskered Yuhina 2, Stripe-throated Yuhina 25, Rufous-vented Yuhina 50, White-browed Fulvetta 5, Black-crested Tit 6, Green-backed Tit 8, White-tailed Nuthatch 5, Common Treecreeper 1, Green-tailed Sunbird 2, Fire-tailed Sunbird 1, Oriental White-eye 2, Chough 2, Large-billed Crow 5, Beautiful Rosefinch 6, Spot-winged Rosefinch 1 male, White-winged Grosbeak 2.

looking down on Ghasa from part way up the opposite hillside

view from the slopes above Ghasa

looking a long way down on Ghasa

above Ghasa, still not at the tree-line





30 years ago: 20 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 17, Kalopani to Ghasa

Saturday 20th March 1982:  Kalopani to Ghasa (6 miles)

We left Kalopani at 09:00, it having taken a long time to sort out our bill.  An excellent clear day and pleasant walking with Fire-capped Tit an unexpected bonus (and my first new bird for a week).  We returned to the Mustang Lodge in Ghasa (6600 ft) and after lunch, at 14:00, I climbed a short way up the hill opposite seeing quite a few birds.  Returned to the lodge at 17:30 for daal bhat, not spicy but vegetables 90% cabbage, although that didn’t stop me having two plates full.  A hot sweaty night despite still being at over 6000 ft.  

Birds recorded:  Himalayan Griffon Vulture 5, Kalij Pheasant 1 male, Collared Pigmy Owl h, Asiatic House Martin 40, Olive-backed Pipit 1, Grey Wagtail 4, Long-tailed Minivet 8, White-cheeked Bulbul 1, Black Bulbul 2, Red-flanked Bluetail 2, Blue-fronted Redstart 1, Stonechat 5, Grey Bushchat 20, River Chat 1, Blue Whistling Thrush 3, Grey-hooded Warbler 15, Blyth’s Crowned Leaf Warbler 4, Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler 1, Lemon-rumped Warbler 5, Grey-headed Flycatcher 2, Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler 2, Streaked Laughingthrush 6, Red-headed Laughingthrush 4, Chestnut-tailed Minla 6, Black-capped Sibia 4, Whiskered Yuhina 10, Stripe-throated Yuhina 3, White-browed Fulvetta 10, Red-headed Tit 6, Green-backed Tit 5, White-tailed Nuthatch 3, Himalayan Treecreeper 1, *Fire-capped Tit 4, Green-tailed Sunbird 2, Fire-tailed Sunbird 1, Grey-backed Shrike 1, Large-billed Crow 1, Tree Sparrow 10, Russet Sparrow 4, Spot-winged Rosefinch 5.

Fire-capped Tit on the way to Ghasa

30 years ago: 19 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 16, Kalopani

Friday 19th March 1982:  Kalopani and surrounding area (6 miles)

After an excellent breakfast of oat porridge and fried potatoes I was out from 08:00-17:45.  A pleasant casual day birding at Kalopani and Lete with excellent weather and lots of ‘sit down’ stops.  I saw my first rhododendrons in flower.  I now really like the See You Lodge (I hadn’t been too impressed with it on the way up).  My lazy day continued with the paucity of this diary entry.

Birds seen:  Lammergeyer 2, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 3, Common Buzzard 1, Snipe 1, Asiatic House Martin 20, Olive-backed Pipit 1, Long-tailed Minivet 5, Rufous-breasted Accentor 1, Himalayan Accentor 2, Red-flanked Bluetail 2, Blue-headed Redstart 8, Blue-fronted Redstart 6, White-throated Redstart 10, Stonechat 2, Grey Bushchat 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 1, Red-throated Thrush 40, Black-throated Thrush 1, Grey-hooded Warbler 1, Ashy-throated Leaf Warbler 8, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher 1, Grey-headed Flycatcher 3, Streaked Laughingthrush 2, Variegated Laughingthrush 5, Chestnut-tailed Minla 3, Black-capped Sibia 5, Stripe-throated Yuhina 2, White-browed Fulvetta 1, Yellow-browed Tit 1, Grey-crested Tit 1, Green-backed Tit 10, White-tailed Nuthatch 6, Green-tailed Sunbird 7, Nutcracker 3, Chough 50, Large-billed Crow 1, Russet Sparrow 5, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 20, Beautiful Rosefinch 40, Spot-winged Rosefinch 2.

Green-backed Tit at Kalopani

Red-throated Thrush at Kalopani

30 years ago: 18 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 15, Jomson to Kalopani

Thursday 18th March 1982: Jomson to Kalopani (13 miles) The weather was reasonable when we left Jomson and birds excellent, especially in the fields at Syang where the Eversmann’s Redstart was still present.   We continued on to Marpha for elevenses and to Tukche (8500ft) for another excellent apple bread and jam.   The weather deteriorated while we were there and the rest of the walk to Kalopani was done in the rain, but with some good birding in the willows on the way including Isabelline Wheatear, Chaffinch and Brambling.   The See You Lodge at Kalopani (8400ft) was almost empty and had an excellent fire for drying out.   After some good food I spent the evening drawing a map of the world for the lodge’s proprietor - an avid student and very knowledgeable. My cold is definitely getting better.

Birds seen: Black Kite 1, Lammergeyer 1, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 5, Golden Eagle 2, Kestrel 2, Rock Dove 20, Chukar 30, Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker 1, Small Skylark 4, Pied Wagtail 3, Brown Accentor 10, Robin Accentor 4, Alpine Accentor 1, Eversmann’s Redstart 1 (same), Blue-headed Redstart 5, Hodgson’s Redstart 1 female, White-throated Redstart 15, Guldenstadt’s Redstart 2, Plumbeous Redstart 1, Isabelline Wheatear 1, Blue Whistling Thrush 1, Red-throated Thrush 30, Black-throated Thrush 1, Stoliczka’s Tit Warbler 1, Variegated Laughingthrush 1, Yellow-browed Tit 1, Green-backed Tit 1, Wallcreeper 1, Grey-backed Shrike 1, Chough 50, Large-billed Crow 2, Tree Sparrow 10, Chaffinch 30, Brambling 30, Beautiful Rosefinch 5, Eastern Great Rosefinch 10, White-winged Grosbeak 1, Rock Bunting 5.

White-throated Redstart at Syang

Guldenstadt's Redstart at Syang

probably the most striking redstart

Stoliczka's Tit Warbler, a stunning bird that thankfully was not always this secretive

Wallcreeper at Syang

one of my all time favourite birds

30 years ago: 17 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 14, Muktinath to Jomson

Wednesday 17th March 1982: Muktinath to Jomson (12 miles)

Breakfast took ages to arrive but as the weather was still bad we didn't feel as if we were missing a lot.  It was not practical to venture onto the Thorong Pass as the trail was hidden under snow so we decided to head back down to Jomson, leaving just before 10.00. The part to Jharkot was not too bad with the sun breaking through occasionally but after a few hours the snow got progressively heavier with conditions approaching a blizzard.  We returned via Kagbeni chasing a rumour that Richard Grimmett et al might be there but they weren’t. We arrived at Jomson (8900 ft) absolutely soaked. The Alaka Hotel was full of German trekkers and had a pathetic fire making it hard to dry things out - so much for our environmental credentials.

Birds seen: Himalayan Griffon Vulture 2, Ruddy Shelduck 5, Rock Dove 20, Chukar 20, Brown Accentor 10, White-throated Redstart 2, Stoliczka’s Tit Warbler 3, Variegated Laughingthrush 2, Wallcreeper 2, Chough 200, Large-billed Crow 1, Tree Sparrow 20, Hodgson’s Mountain Finch 1000, Beautiful Rosefinch 2, Eastern Great Rosefinch 3, White-winged Grosbeak 2, Rock Bunting 4.

descent from Muktinath to Jharkot, weather poor

descent from Jharkot to Kagbeni, weather improving

following the Thak Khola from Kagbeni to Jomson, the improvement in the weather didn't last

30 years ago: 16 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 13, Kagbeni to Muktinath

Tuesday 16th March 1982:  Kagbeni to Muktinath (7 miles), Jomson Trek, Nepal

We left Kagbeni at 07:50.  The weather had changed, being overcast and cooler, although that made the steep climb E out of Kagbeni seem easier.  Once around the main ridge above Kagbeni, with Muktinath just visible well ahead of us, we were walking on snow.  I’d been finding it hard to keep up with Colin and Dave and they were soon way ahead of me, but at least we didn’t have far to go.  I stopped for an early lunch at Jharkot (where the fields were very muddy) and again (!) at Muktinath (12,500 ft) when I caught up with them.  We stayed in the Muktinath Hotel, an expensive 10 rupees each (most other lodges on the trek being only three!), but only one other place was open and we had been advised against it.  It was snowing when I arrived at Muktinath and continued doing so for the rest of the day.  I walked to the ‘cow shed’ pool and the Temple returning at 17:00 wet from the knees down. A male Blackbird was unexpected and seemed somewhat out of place in the snow, 5 Solitary Snipe by the pool were less so.  I dried off by the fire reasonably fast but still have a cold, my nose running with varying intensity during the day.

Birds seen:  Himalayan Griffon Vulture 1, Solitary Snipe 5, Crag Martin 5, Rosy Pipit 1, Grey Wagtail 1, Pied Wagtail 5, Wren 1, Robin Accentor 2, Himalayan Accentor 7, White-throated Redstart 2, Guldenstadt’s Redstart 2 males, Blackbird 1 male, Chough 200, Raven 2, Tree Sparrow 50, Russet Sparrow 1, Red-fronted Serin 15, Eastern Great Rosefinch 8, Rock Bunting 1.

climbing the ridge above Kagbeni

snowy trail towards Jharkot

approaching Jharkot

ponys at Jharkot

Jharkot

below Muktinath

Temple at Muktinath in the snow

Temple at Muktinath, still snowing