30 years ago: 16 March 1982, Jomson Trek day 13, Kagbeni to Muktinath

Tuesday 16th March 1982:  Kagbeni to Muktinath (7 miles), Jomson Trek, Nepal

We left Kagbeni at 07:50.  The weather had changed, being overcast and cooler, although that made the steep climb E out of Kagbeni seem easier.  Once around the main ridge above Kagbeni, with Muktinath just visible well ahead of us, we were walking on snow.  I’d been finding it hard to keep up with Colin and Dave and they were soon way ahead of me, but at least we didn’t have far to go.  I stopped for an early lunch at Jharkot (where the fields were very muddy) and again (!) at Muktinath (12,500 ft) when I caught up with them.  We stayed in the Muktinath Hotel, an expensive 10 rupees each (most other lodges on the trek being only three!), but only one other place was open and we had been advised against it.  It was snowing when I arrived at Muktinath and continued doing so for the rest of the day.  I walked to the ‘cow shed’ pool and the Temple returning at 17:00 wet from the knees down. A male Blackbird was unexpected and seemed somewhat out of place in the snow, 5 Solitary Snipe by the pool were less so.  I dried off by the fire reasonably fast but still have a cold, my nose running with varying intensity during the day.

Birds seen:  Himalayan Griffon Vulture 1, Solitary Snipe 5, Crag Martin 5, Rosy Pipit 1, Grey Wagtail 1, Pied Wagtail 5, Wren 1, Robin Accentor 2, Himalayan Accentor 7, White-throated Redstart 2, Guldenstadt’s Redstart 2 males, Blackbird 1 male, Chough 200, Raven 2, Tree Sparrow 50, Russet Sparrow 1, Red-fronted Serin 15, Eastern Great Rosefinch 8, Rock Bunting 1.

climbing the ridge above Kagbeni

snowy trail towards Jharkot

approaching Jharkot

ponys at Jharkot

Jharkot

below Muktinath

Temple at Muktinath in the snow

Temple at Muktinath, still snowing